Weekend Wandering in Djerdap | Where to Go on an Excursion?

The region with probably the most beautiful landscapes and viewpoints in Eastern Serbia is located within the territory of Djerdap National Park. The road that irresistibly resembles a coastal highway leads to some of the most beautiful natural and historical sites in the country. While some of them are easily accessible by car, others require hiking for several hours. Nevertheless, the large number of tourist attractions in a relatively small area makes Djerdap a highly popular destination for those who enjoy spending their free time outside the city.

Serbia has the privilege of having the Danube, throughout its entire course from Germany to the Black Sea (2850 km), widest, narrowest, and deepest precisely within the territory of Djerdap National Park. Being the second-longest European river, flowing through Serbia for about 590 km, it is clear that the Danube itself is a world-scale attraction.

During warm summer days, one of the most beautiful short trips you can organize in Serbia is precisely the visit to the Djerdap Gorge and the exploration of its numerous natural and historical values. This two-day trip will present locations in and around the gorge that can be easily visited and filled with activities for two days. However, before setting off, it would be good to remember some basic facts about Djerdap.

Djerdap Gorge - the longest gorge in Europe

Following the course of the Danube, the Đerdap Gorge stretches for a length of 98 km, from Golubac to Kladovo. It is carved into the Carpathian Mountains, which extend in the form of arches from Romania towards Serbia, while the Danube represents the administrative border between these two countries in this area. It consists of a series of smaller gorges and basins that alternate in almost regular intervals along the entire course. Until the 1970s, the Danube flowed through this gorge as a strong and turbulent river, making navigation difficult. With the construction of the Iron Gate Hydroelectric Power Plant, the flow of the Danube was slowed down, and the Djerdap Lake was formed, whose waters, at maximum level, reach all the way to Belgrade and often flood the basements of the Dorćol neighborhood. During the construction of the Djerdap Dam, all settlements that were originally located along the Danube coast were submerged. For this reason, on this trip, we won't see old buildings, but we will see the beautiful and mighty nature reflected in the waves of the Danube and the canopies of Miroč.

Departure for this trip should be planned in the early morning hours to allow enough time to visit everything planned for the first day. The simplest and fastest way to reach the gorge from Belgrade is to take the motorway to the Požarevac exit, and then take the bypass road towards Veliko Gradište and Golubac. The first encounter with the Danube will happen precisely at the entrance to Golubac, where the Danube is widest along its entire course (over 2.5 km). From this location, the most beautiful view of the beginning of the gorge and Golubac Fortress unfolds.

Golubac Fortress

This fortress was first mentioned in 1335 in the charter of Hungarian King Louis I. It is not known who exactly built it and during which period. Over time, it was conquered multiple times by Serbs, Hungarians, and Turks. Until about ten years ago, it was in a rather dilapidated state, but with the help of donations, it has been restored and today represents a true gem on the Danube. Golubac Fortress consists of city walls enclosing nine towers and a palace. Near the fortress, there are also several archaeological excavations accessible to visitors. The fortress is open from 10 am, and ticket prices vary depending on the complexity and scope of the tour. Local guides organize fortress tours every hour.

Lepenski Vir Museum

After visiting the fortress, which is located at the entrance to Đerdap National Park, the journey continues towards Donji Milanovac. After about thirty minutes of driving through the upstream part of the gorge, you will reach Lepenski Vir Museum, one of the most significant archaeological sites in Serbia. This archaeological site dates back to the Mesolithic and Neolithic periods (6500-4500 BCE) and was discovered and researched by one of the greatest Serbian archaeologists, Dragoslav Srejović. The significance of Lepenski Vir in the history of European civilization is reflected in the fact that it was the first permanent settlement in Europe. The inhabitants of ancient Lepenski Vir spent most of the year by the river, engaged in fishing for moruna, once the largest fish in the Danube, and they also consumed roe, which later became the basis for the production of expensive caviar. This is also the place where the first portraits carved in stone were created. The museum features a replica of the settlement with artifacts that were relocated from the Danube shore to a higher location due to the creation of the Đerdap Lake. During the museum visit, it is possible to watch a short documentary film showcasing original footage from archaeological excavations. Next to the museum parking lot, there is a tavern where you can try some of the Vlach specialties, such as kačamak (a corn-based dish) and grilled cheese. An ideal place for a break and a light meal.

Boljetin River Canyon

After this short rest, the journey can continue, and after just a few minutes of driving, you will reach a magnificent natural phenomenon and a unique geological attraction in this part of Europe. It is the Boljetin River Canyon, skillfully hidden but still relatively easily accessible from the Djerdap highway. What makes the Boljetin River Canyon unique in Europe is its valley walls. Cut into sedimentary rocks from various geological epochs, their intersection allows for a clear reading of the geological history of these regions, which is rarely seen anywhere else on the planet. Sedimentary layers of rocks, ranging in age from the Middle Jurassic period (140 million years ago) to the present day, can be clearly observed and studied throughout the length of the canyon, providing a true delight for geology enthusiasts.

Etno complex Kapetan Mišin breg

Ten kilometers further, towards Donji Milanovac, you will find the enchanting ethno complex Kapetan Mišin breg. Located on a hill, the restaurant's garden offers a beautiful view of the Danube and Donji Milanovac. The complex is named after Miša Anastasijević, a prominent Serbian merchant and philanthropist born in Poreč, near Donji Milanovac. His most famous endowment is located in Belgrade, at Studentski Trg, and it houses the University of Belgrade Rectorate.

Donji Milanovac

Returning to the Djerdap Highway, after a little over 5 minutes, you will reach Donji Milanovac, the headquarters of Djerdap National Park. This beautiful town is also home to a cruise ship port, a large park, and a beach. The beaches along the Danube are mostly hidden and rarely visible from the main road. The beach in Donji Milanovac is easily accessible, located not far from the town center, and equipped with umbrellas. It is ideal for swimming in the summer. Between Donji Milanovac and Tekija, there are numerous small, hidden, and unmarked beaches, and another large and easily accessible beach is located in Tekija.

Poreč River Bay

The journey continues around the Poreč River Bay, the point where the Poreč River flows into the Danube. This river bay was formed after the construction of a dam, which caused the Danube waters to flood the mouth of the Poreč River, forming a long bay within its valley, resembling an estuary. At this point, the road diverges into two directions - one towards Negotin and Majdanpek, and the other towards Kladovo. The road to Kladovo passes through the most beautiful and probably the most attractive part of the Djerdap Gorge, known as the Kazan.

Kazans

Continuing on the road, after passing the village of Golubinje, you will reach the narrowest and deepest part of the entire Danube - the Mali and Veliki Kazan gorges. At this point, the Danube is only 180 meters wide and reaches a depth of 82 meters, which is also the greatest river depth recorded in Europe. Before entering the gorge, it is possible to take a boat ride through the gorges and see the famous Trajan's Plaque and Trajan's Road, as well as the Djerdap Gorge from a completely different perspective.

Tabula Traiana

In the first centuries of the new era, the Danube represented the border of the Roman Empire towards Dacia. In order to protect the border, the Roman Emperor Trajan ordered the construction of a road through the gorge that was supposed to connect military fortifications. The road was built even after his reign, so emperors Tiberius, Claudius, and Domitian also contributed. Trajan's Road was carved into the rock and was up to 2 meters wide. It was marked with commemorative plaques that contained various inscriptions with basic information about the road. After the formation of the Djerdap Lake, the entire Trajan's Road was submerged, along with the mentioned plaques. The only plaque preserved today is the Tabula Traiana (Trajan's Plaque), and it can only be seen from the water. Before the dam was put into operation, the plaque was raised to a level 25 meters higher in order to remain above the future lake level.

Miroč Peaks

For nature lovers, there is an opportunity to climb the highest Miroč Peaks (Veliki Štrbac, Ploče, Mali prilaz), which offer the most beautiful views of the Danube and the gorge. However, as climbing requires registration with the Djerdap National Park, this endeavor takes a lot of time, so it might be better to save it for another occasion.

Viewpoints in the Djerdap Gorge

Within the gorge itself, there are several beautiful and clearly marked viewpoints with parking available. Besides the stunning Djerdap scenery, the largest carved sculpture in Europe can be observed – the portrait of Decebal carved into the rock on the Romanian side of the gorge. Decebal was the last king of the Dacians who ruled during the same period as Emperor Trajan. He managed to resist the attacks of the Roman army for a long time, and his likeness, carved at the end of the last century, is symbolically located opposite Trajan's Plaque.

Balloon Stations

In this part of the gorge, there are also two Balloon Stations that served as a kind of semaphore for ships. Before the construction of the dam, the Danube was a fast-flowing river with numerous underwater reefs that hindered navigation. Since it was not safe for ships to pass each other at this location, they were let through one by one, with signals sent from the Balloon Stations.

Tekija

Continuing along the Danube, the road leads through Tekija, a small settlement on the riverbank with a beautiful sandy beach. Interestingly, today's Tekija is a relatively new settlement, formed after the submergence of the old Tekija, which remained underwater after the construction of the dam. Myth or truth, the story goes that the largest specimens of Danube catfish are hidden precisely in the submerged houses of old Tekija and are impossible to catch.

For history enthusiasts, not far from Tekija, on the left side of the road, there is a monument to Captain Koča, who perished at this location in a battle against the Turks in 1788.

A little further, there are the ruins of the former Fort Elizabet, which the Austrians built in 1736. Unfortunately, the fortress is overgrown with weeds and difficult to notice from the road.

Djerdap Hydroelectric Power Plant

At the very exit of the Djerdap Gorge is the Djerdap I Hydroelectric Power Plant, the largest in Serbia. It has a road and a border crossing that leads to Romania and the city of Drobeta Turnu Severin. The power plant was put into operation in 1970 and can be seen from the plateau not far from the turnoff to the dam.

Archaeological Site Diana

After the settlement of Karataš, on the left side, you will find the archaeological site Diana built during the reign of Emperor Trajan in the 1st century. The site is preserved but neglected. It is open for visitation, but there is no organized tour available.

Kladovo

If you visit all the mentioned places without extended stops, you should arrive in Kladovo in the late afternoon. On the entrance to Kladovo, on the left side, there is a shipyard. Here, one of the oldest Serbian steamships, the steamship Vojvodina, is moored, and its funnels can be seen from the main road. Unfortunately, it is not possible to visit the ship, which is still awaiting renovation to regain its former glory. This town was once known for producing high-quality caviar made from the roe of the Danube sturgeon that spawned in the Danube before the construction of the dams. In Kladovo, you can rent an apartment or hotel room and rest after a full day of travel. Several restaurants and cafes on the main city street will meet all your needs.

Fetislam Fortress

The second day could begin with a visit to the Fetislam Fortress located in Kladovo, on the banks of the Danube. The fortress was built in the early 16th century and was envisioned as a starting point for the Ottoman conquest of Hungarian cities on the Danube. The fortress is partially arranged for visitation, but there are no information boards or other tourist facilities. After exploring the fortress, you can also visit the initial pillar of the former Trajan's Bridge in Kostol, which connected the two banks of the Danube for the first time in history. The bridge was a marvel of construction for its time, and during its construction, the entire flow of the Danube was diverted to build it on dry land. It was built in just two years and lasted until the 3rd century. Until the beginning of the 20th century, several pillars protruded from the Danube, representing the remains of the bridge. However, for navigational safety, the pillars were destroyed, and today, only the initial pillars in Serbia and Romania can be seen. Trajan's Bridge and Trajan's Road are carved into Trajan's Column, located in Rome.

Negotin

After Kladovo, we move away from the Danube. The next destination is Negotin, an impressive town located in the flatland of Timok region, not far from the tripoint with Romania and Bulgaria. The city center is well-arranged, and you can start the sightseeing from the City Park. Not far from it, you will find the Hajduk Veljko Museum, Mokranjac's House, and the Krajina Museum. The main pedestrian street connects two squares - Stevan Mokranjac Square and Djorđe Stanojević Square, prominent figures from Negotin's history.

Rajac and Rogljevo Wine Cellars

For wine enthusiasts, Negotin is one of the most popular destinations. The fertile vineyards and a large number of sunny days enable the production of quality wine for centuries. Not far from Negotin, you will find the Rajac and Rogljevo wine cellars where wine is still produced today. The cellars represent parts of villages where people stayed during the grape harvest season and where wine was produced. The villages of Rajac and Rogljevo were once the most famous villages in the surrounding area from which wine was exported in large quantities by train and boats to Belgium and further to France. Today, they are well-arranged, reconstructed, and can be visited as a tourist attraction to learn about the traditional way of making and enjoying wine. In some cellars, you can also taste bagrina, an old and almost forgotten grape variety used to make authentic wine from this region.

If you only want to taste wine but not visit the Rajac and Rogljevo wine cellars, you can visit the Matalj Winery at the exit from Negotin. In the restaurant with a view of the Negotin region, you can have lunch and taste various wines from this vineyard.

The return to Belgrade is shortest via Rudna Glava, Donji Milanovac, and Golubac. If you depart in the early evening hours, you will be able to enjoy the sunset over the Danube and Golubac Fortress.

Trip Type: Two-day

Transportation: Car/motorcycle

Approximate mileage: 590 km

Physical demand: 3/5

Average budget (per person): 7,500 - 8,500 RSD

Author: Ratomir Veselinović - tour guide and geographer