A Walk Through the Negotin Pimnice | Where to Go for a Trip?!
- Vesna Milić Radosavljević
- 5 min
- 10 October 2022.
- Guide
Negotin - a town located at the crossroads of Serbia, Romania, and Bulgaria, is famous for the renowned composer Stevan Stojanović - Mokranjac and its vineyards of exceptional beauty and quality produce. That's why this town and its surroundings are perfect for enjoying music and delicious wines, making them attractive to tourists from Serbia and increasingly from Europe.
Negotinska Krajina is surrounded by mountains such as Miroč, Crni Vrh, and Deli Jovan, and it has its natural river boundaries - the mighty Danube and the mysterious Timok. The breathtaking landscape is another reason to visit Eastern Serbia. However, what makes Negotinska Krajina unique are not only its natural beauty and geographical location but also the famous wine cellars where some of the best wines in Serbia are produced.
Rajac Pimnice
The most famous wine settlement in the vicinity of Negotin is Rajac Pimnice. They are located on a hill above the village of Rajac, so visitors can expect a steep and narrow path, but it is well worth the effort. From this place, there is an incredible view of the picturesque landscape, and the wine settlement itself is a story of its own. Rustic stone and wooden houses, adorned with ethno details on the inside, give visitors a feeling of stepping into another era.
In addition to the wine houses and vineyards, the settlement is also known for its old cemetery built of sandstone (peščara), which is a monument in itself and is definitely worth visiting. Intoxicated by the beauty of this place, visitors will be taken even further beyond the realm of imagination by the reality of wine. Whether it's red or white, certainly no wine should be skipped.
Rogljevac Pimnice
The village of Rogljevo, not as well-known as Rajac, can certainly rival it in terms of the beauty of its wine settlement. Rogljevo has around 120 households and an equal number of cellars a few kilometers away. In the center of the village, there is a gathering place, a well, and a structure resembling a church. Surrounding it are wine cellars or Rogljevac Pimnice, where generations of local families traditionally produce this beverage. "Unlimited and obligation-free tasting" is the motto of the hosts and cellar owners, who strive to revive indigenous grape varieties such as Bagrina and Crna Tamjanika.
In the village of Rogljevo, there is an inn, a true wine castle - Dunjin Konak. This building is unique in the Negotinska Krajina region and beyond, and it was constructed in 1936 by Milen Aleksić, a renowned wine producer and trader at the time. His granddaughter now rents rooms in this building to tourists and prepares the most delicious homemade specialties for her guests.
Smedovac Pimnice
Unlike their neighbors, the people of Smedovac have built their wine houses right at the entrance to the village. And in their cellars, wooden barrels full of different wines await, and besides tasting, visitors will also be offered the opportunity to buy and take a bottle with them.
Smedovac is located between Rogljevo and Rajac and is unique in that one cellar is owned by the passionate cyclist Bojan Stanisavljević. This host supports tourists traveling on the EuroVelo 6 and EuroVelo 13 cycling routes. In Negotin itself, this winemaker also has a cycling camp, and pedal-powered enthusiasts can even stay in his wine cellar.
Negotin Wine Festivals
Two festivals promote the wine villages of Negotinska Krajina. The festival "Day of Wine and Good Spirits" completely justifies its name. Towards the end of August, Rajac and its wine cellars become a hub for wine lovers from all parts of Serbia. During the festival day, tourists can enjoy the divine beverage from almost every cellar here. Tables are set up in front of stone houses for a lavish feast, which goes perfectly well with wine tasting. Two stages are set up in the settlement, where visitors are greeted with the sounds of various musical genres, and among the accompanying events, it's worth seeing grape stomping. Although grape stomping is no longer practiced, this tradition remains as a beautiful reminder of the tradition of crushing grapes under maiden feet.
A more recent event is the "Krajinska Berba" (Harvest of Krajina), which takes place on the first Saturday in September in the Rogljevačke Pimnice. Visitors have the opportunity to familiarize themselves with the traditional custom of going to the vineyard, called Moba, which represents the traditional association of work to facilitate key agricultural tasks. At the central gathering place, wines and souvenirs of local craftsmanship from this region are exhibited, and the hosts also offer completely natural honey.
A Brief History of the Origin of Negotin's Pimnice
The pimnice in Negotinska Krajina are wine settlements that were established between 1860 and 1890 and to this day, they are places where wine resides. It is interesting to note that they originated thanks to a major scourge that hit Europe. In the second half of the 19th century, phylloxera, a pest originating from America, spread across the continent and destroyed the leaves of grapevines. The Negotin wine region was almost unaffected by this plague, which attracted winemakers from France to the region. The French thus brought the culture of vine cultivation and winemaking to this area but also took healthy vines directly from the Negotin wine region.
What Makes These Places So Special?
The buildings in the settlements are made of limestone from this region, which has a beneficial effect on the development of grapevine roots and the fruit itself. The architecture of the wine villages resembles the villages of French wine provinces, making the ambiance of the pimnice highly attractive for tourism. In addition to wine cellars, the pimnice also have various other amenities that give the impression that these settlements serve not only wine production but also socialization. There are small squares, places of worship, communal wells, summerhouses, and resting places. A walk along narrow, unpaved side roads, among the stone houses, allows visitors to fully experience the true spirit of the 19th century.
Pimnice or Pivnice - an Eternal Dilemma
Places where wine is consumed are called "pivnice" or, in the local dialect, "pimnice" - derived from the verb "pimnuti" (to take a sip). From ancient times, the inhabitants of these regions have used the phrase "Da pimnemo" when suggesting to one another to enjoy a sip of good wine together. The owners of these wineries prefer to call them "pimnice" also because the term "pivnice" has become established for a completely different alcoholic beverage - beer. However, both names are equally valid.
The pimnice of Rajac, Rogljevo, and Smedovac are protected complexes of exceptional significance and are also included on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. And for good reason, because the uniqueness of these places gives visitors the impression that they are in a fairy tale written in the vivid red color of the finest wine. Those who are in good health have no reason to worry and can freely indulge in wine to their heart's content, as the morning after a visit to the Negotin pimnice is greeted with a clear head.