Avala and Kosmaj in One Day | Where to Go on a Trip?!
- Nikola Igračev
- 9 min
- 17 April 2022.
- Guide
One of the most rewarding day trips that can be done independently in the vicinity of Belgrade involves visiting two "Belgrade" mountains, their beautiful nature, as well as numerous historical monuments, viewpoints, and monasteries along the way. To complete the experience, all of this can be "spiced up" with refreshments at some completely idyllic locations hidden by these island mountains and their surroundings.
So, without further ado...
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Considering that the optimal duration of the tour is about 10 hours, it would be wise to start early and be ready for departure around 8 am.
Although this tour takes place entirely within the urban areas of the capital city, where all necessary supplies are relatively easily accessible, it doesn't hurt to put a backpack on your back and bring a bottle of water, sandwiches or snacks, and possibly a picnic blanket for sitting, and of course - a camera.
With comfortable footwear (which is assumed) and a good mood, that should be enough for embarking on a one-day Avala-Kosmaj adventure.
Memorial Park in Jajinci
The excursion can start on the way to Avala by visiting the Memorial Park in Jajinci, an area where during the first years of World War II, the Nazis liquidated and buried around 80,000 Belgrade citizens, mostly Serbs, Jews, Roma, and opponents of the fascist regime. The place where the most massive execution of the population in the entire occupied Serbia occurred now represents a beautifully landscaped park abundant in greenery. In the central part of the park stands a striking monument to the victims of this pogrom. In line with its character, the park exudes peace and silence, only "disturbed" by children's laughter from the surrounding meadows and hills.
Monument to Soviet War Veterans
From Jajinci, the road leads directly to Avala. At the fourth kilometer from the turnoff from the Avala road towards the summit of this mountain, just below the road on the left side, you can find the Monument to Soviet War Veterans. In 1964, a delegation of high-ranking officers of the Red Army who participated in the liberation of Belgrade from the Nazis (General Zhdanov, Marshal Birjuzov, etc.) were supposed to take part in the celebration of the 20th anniversary of this event. However, due to dense fog and aircraft failure, the delegation's plane crashed on Avala with no survivors, and the following year a monument was erected at the site of the Soviet officers' death, which still stands there today.
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Avala Tower
A few hundred meters from this monument, you'll find the once-popular Hotel "Avala" and a large parking lot that serves as the most common starting point for exploring the attractions of Avala. The most famous of them is undoubtedly the renovated Avala Tower, the tallest telecommunications structure in the country, which due to its prominent position and shape can be seen from almost all approaches to Belgrade. At the same time, with a relative height of 205 meters and a spectacular viewpoint at 122 meters, the Avala Tower offers views where, on a clear day, you can see almost the entire Šumadija, Podunavlje, Valjevo Mountains, and a good part of Srem and Banat as clear as day. The best weather conditions to enjoy this million-dollar view are clear and sunny mornings after rain when the atmosphere is clear and the horizon line is crystal clear. However, enjoying the priceless view comes at a cost: 300 dinars for adults, 150 dinars for students, schoolchildren, and retirees, and a symbolic 1 dinar for children under 7 years of age and people with special needs. On the floor below the viewpoint, at the 119th meter of the Tower, there is a café-bar where you can enjoy a drink with undoubtedly the most beautiful view in Belgrade.
The surroundings of Avala Tower abound with activities for children, from the "Elf Village" to the children's park and sports playground, to an improvised climbing rock. There are also café-bars, souvenir shops, and all the accompanying facilities that should, as a rule, go with one of the city's biggest tourist attractions.
Church-Log Cabin of Saint Despot Stefan Lazarević
Just under 100 meters from the Tower, you'll find the Orthodox church-log cabin with a bell tower, dedicated to Despot Stefan Lazarević. Built in 2017, this wooden church is certainly one of the youngest attractions in Avala and a unique architectural and ambient entity complemented by pleasant spiritual music. Next to the church is the so-called guesthouse, built in the same style, where you can refresh yourself before continuing your sightseeing.
Monument to the Unknown Hero
Alongside Avala Tower, the greatest tourist attraction of Avala is undoubtedly the Monument to the Unknown Hero. Erected on the initiative of King Aleksandar I Karađorđević, on the site of the former medieval fortress of Žrnov, it was completed only in 1938 and dedicated to all unknown (unidentified) heroes who fell in wars from 1912 to 1918. The monument represents a kind of mausoleum, inside of which lie the remains of an unknown warrior, as a symbol of the sacrifice for the homeland's freedom of all those whose bodies were never found. The author of the magnificent granite monument with caryatids is Ivan Meštrović, the most significant Yugoslav sculptor between the two world wars. Symbolically located at the highest point of Avala, at an elevation of 511 meters, the monument is reached by a long series of cascading steps.
The exploration of Avala can be brought to a gentle conclusion with a walk towards "Čarapić's Oak", a mountain hut and restaurant in the vicinity of which the monument to Vasa Čarapić, a duke of the First Serbian Uprising, can be found. After a brief refreshment on the pleasant terrace of the restaurant, it is time to continue...
Trešnja (Cherry) Lake
Upon returning to Avala Road and continuing towards Kragujevac, after about 15 kilometers, an unofficial but sufficiently marked turnoff appears for the game reserve, park-forest, and Trešnja Lake. A decent but narrow and winding asphalt road through dense mixed forest leads us to a small artificial lake after 1.5 kilometers, which, along with the surrounding trees, forms an exceptionally beautiful natural and ambient entity. Initially built as a water collector in case of a fire in the dense forest, the lake became one of the popular excursion sites and well-known swimming spots in Belgrade in the late 1960s. It reached its peak of popularity in the early 1980s when the famous scene from the even more famous movie "Maratonci" was filmed here, starring Bora Todorović and Seka Sablić. A small hotel and restaurant in the immediate vicinity of the lake used to enhance the experience for visitors until the late 1990s, but due to neglect, they are now literally in a state of decay, which is a big stain in this idyllic ambiance. However, a well-trodden path of about 500 meters allows for a pleasant walk around the lake, where anglers are regular guests.
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Zilotic Monastery of Utešiteljevo
Continuing the road towards Kosmaj, an interesting stop can be the Orthodox monastery of the Serbian True Orthodox Church, which is canonically unrecognized. It is the Zilotic Monastery - Orthodox Christians who staunchly oppose ecumenism and any compromise that deviates from "authentic Orthodoxy." There are only a few Zilotic monasteries in Serbia, which, in terms of doctrine, are almost indistinguishable from the canonical Serbian Orthodox Church, but they are considered schismatic and heretical. The universal message of the Zilotes is "Orthodoxy or death," usually displayed with a cross on a large black banner. Utešiteljevo Monastery is located just a 5-minute drive or about 3.5 kilometers from the turnoff for Trešnja.
Tresije Monastery
An essential stop when heading to Kosmaj, and perhaps an excellent opportunity to immediately compare the philosophies of the two church organizations, is the Serbian medieval Tresije Monastery. Located at the foot of Kosmaj, Tresije can be reached from Trešnja via the road through Ralja and Sopot*. Already on the second kilometer of the road leading from the village of Nemenikuće to the top of Kosmaj, one encounters the beautiful monastery building, believed to be a foundation of King Dragutin (13th century). It has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and its current appearance dates back to the mid-20th century. The church, dedicated to the Holy Archangels, was built in the Byzantine-Raška style, which, along with the beautifully landscaped courtyard, makes this monastery a truly attractive point on the Kosmaj excursion route.
*By the way, in the center of Sopot, worth mentioning is the Stari Han, an authentic building from the early 19th century that used to be a resting place for travelers and caravans on the road from Belgrade to Kragujevac. Although it has the status of a cultural monument protected by the state, unfortunately, Stari Han is not open to visitors, so there is no need to linger.
After visiting the monastery, the journey continues towards the village of Koraćica. However, after just 2.5 kilometers, you reach a crossroads and a parking lot that serves as the starting point for new interesting destinations.
Kosmaj Viewpoint
By turning left at the intersection, after half a kilometer, you will reach an impressive wooden viewpoint that offers a fantastic view towards Avala and the Šumadija villages scattered between the two mountains.
Memorial Ossuary on White Stone
After enjoying the beautiful panorama of northern Šumadija, it is recommended to visit the nearby Spomen-kosturnica na Belom kamenu (Memorial Ossuary on White Stone), which can be reached by a relatively steep walking path about 200 meters long. It is a monument dedicated to the warriors who fell in the defense of Belgrade in 1914, in the battle on Kosmaj that preceded the victorious outcome of the Battle of Kolubara. The modest-sized monument was erected in 1935 and is disproportionate to the sacrifice made by Serbian warriors in World War I.
Monument to the Fighters of the Kosmaj Partisan Detachment
Opposite it, a kind of symbol of Kosmaj has become the grandiose monument dedicated to the fighters of the Kosmaj Partisan Detachment from the Second World War. A branching concrete sculpture 30 meters high, made in the 1970s, is placed on Malo Vrh, one of the peaks of Kosmaj. Well-maintained walking paths lead to it from different directions, making the ascent to this peak even more attractive.
By visiting and photographing this typical monument of the socialist-realist era in Serbian and Yugoslav art, the one-day excursion could slowly come to an end.
"Kabinet" Brewery
A kind of "icing on the cake" for this day could be a visit to the craft brewery "Kabinet". The atmosphere, which cannot be experienced in many places in Serbia, lies in the fact that after a whole day of sightseeing and probable fatigue, you can refresh yourself with excellent craft beer and even more delicious food. The uniqueness of this place is the spacious meadow with freshly mowed grass and scattered umbrellas like mushrooms, under which you can relax and sum up a quite eventful day, even without placing orders.
It takes about an hour to return to Belgrade from the "Kabinet" Brewery, completing this one-day excursion.
Type of excursion: One-day
Optimal duration: 10 hours
Transportation: Car/motorcycle
Approximate distance: 90 km
Physical demand: 1/5
Average budget (per person): 1,000 – 2,000 RSD