Toledo - A Magical Day in the Medieval Capital of Spain

...When the crowds of Madrid start to wear you down or you simply want to see something a little different, a trip to the nearby town of Toledo would be my warm recommendation to everyone, and for me - the next destination on this Spanish route...

(Read the complete first part of the travelogue through Spain)

The round-trip ticket from Madrid to Toledo costs 12 euros, and the journey takes about 45 minutes.

Many will be surprised to learn that until 1560, this town, located about 70 kilometers from Madrid, was the capital of the Spanish kingdom (Madrid only became the capital during the time of Philip II). The history of the entire Spain, including Toledo, in a sense resembles the popular series "Game of Thrones" (minus the dragons). Throughout the centuries, various peoples (Greeks, Romans, Visigoths, Arabs) ruled and passed through here, leaving their indelible traces, so Toledo is now known as the "City of Three Cultures" (Christian, Muslim, and Jewish).

Like in most European cities, the bus station is located outside the city center, but the excitement of discovering a new place makes the walk to it an absolute pleasure. It is natural to draw an analogy between the place where you find yourself for the first time and a familiar one, so Toledo at first glance reminds me of Novi Sad, more precisely Petrovaradin and the Petrovaradin Fortress. Namely, the center of Toledo is surrounded by walls that have preserved the historic core of the city. The approach to the fortress and the main square is unusually interesting and exciting, as it involves riding along several sets of escalators. This ride reminded me of my childhood and going up and down the escalators to the Vuk Monument subway station, mostly just for fun.

Anyway, after the extraordinary ride, the exploration of the city could begin.

Zocodover Square is located near the city entrance, right next to the Museum of Archaeology and Art Santa Cruz which is the first thing you come across. This part of the city is better known as the Austrian quarter, as it was developed during the time when the Habsburgs ruled Spain. It is very interesting and unusual at first sight that most buildings in this neighborhood have "cut-off" corners. The explanation lies in the Austrian architectural style. Namely, Austrians built such buildings in their homeland to collect snow, and out of habit, they brought that style to Spain, ignoring the fact that Toledo hardly ever gets snow. Most of the churches were built during the Visigothic period, and in the 15th century, the construction of the famous city cathedral was completed. The construction itself lasted three centuries, and it is located on the site of a former 7th-century church. This cathedral is known for its grand and massive bell, the largest in Spain and the third largest in Europe, after the bells in the Kremlin and Cologne. It is possible to climb to the top of the cathedral tower. The price is 3 euros.

Like Madrid, Toledo also has its own Puerta de Sol, which represents the city gate, built in the distant 14th century. In its immediate vicinity is a mosque, one of only two remaining buildings from the period of Arab rule on the peninsula. As cultures and civilizational influences intertwined throughout the Iberian Peninsula, as is usually the case, each subsequent culture would burn and destroy the legacy of its predecessors. Therefore, apart from the mentioned mosques, there are almost no traces of Muslim presence in the city.

A similar fate befell the Jewish quarters that once covered a significant area of the city, but today very little is known about them, as the Catholic Church's missionary boot either expelled or converted the majority of Jews to Christianity over time. It was precisely our guide, a young man from Toledo, who revealed during the walking tour that he had only recently and quite accidentally discovered his Jewish heritage, of which several previous generations in his family were unaware. Today, the centuries-old Jewish presence in Toledo is evidenced by two synagogues, one of which is considered the largest in Europe. Truly magnificent and worth a visit.

Toledo is the city where the Greek painter Domenikos Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco, settled in the 16th century and created until the end of his life. The house where he lived, in the center of the Jewish quarter, was turned into a museum many years ago, and it displays the largest number of his original works. In the Church of Santo Tomé, which has a Mudéjar tower (a style of decoration by Islamic Christians, specific to Spain), there is El Greco's work "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz," while the famous painting "The Disrobing of Christ" is housed in the cathedral. There is also a restaurant named after him, where traditional Spanish dishes are served.

Speaking of authentic food and restaurants in Toledo - my advice would be to do some research before coming to Toledo, especially if you are spending only a day or two in this city. Like in most modern European cities, American fast-food chains dominate the most popular city locations, so you will have to make a little effort to find authentic Spanish specialties - traditional restaurants are usually cleverly tucked away and hidden from the urban hustle, and if you do find them, they are often already full or reserved.

This ancient city also has access to several viewpoints outside the city that offer a magnificent panoramic view of Toledo, with the city cathedral in focus. Depending on the time you have available, you can climb one or more of them. The farthest viewpoint offers the most beautiful view and the best opportunities for stunning photographs. Some of the most impressive sights are Saint Martin's Bridge and the Tagus River that surrounds Toledo on three sides, giving you the impression of looking at a peninsula. Therefore, it is worth the effort.

Right next to the bridge is the longest urban zip-line in Europe. The ticket costs 10 euros and can be purchased on-site without prior reservation or long waits. So, besides history, culture, and tradition, this city also offers something more modern and exciting for younger generations and adrenaline enthusiasts. A wonderful town...

However, the day is coming to an end, and with it, this one-day trip to the ancient Spanish capital. The return to Madrid follows, along with rest and packing for the continuation of the tour through Spain. The next destination is Valencia...

To be continued...

Author: Nina Vasiljević