Sri Lanka - the Tear of the Indian Ocean

Tear of the Indian Ocean, as many call Sri Lanka, looking at the geographical map, is located right next to India, on its southeastern side. Although it is a quarter of the size of Serbia, Sri Lanka is nearly four times more populous and has a population of about 22 million. Until the middle of the last century, this island was a little-known, distant, and exotic destination for tourists from Europe, a country of the so-called "third" world.

World political circumstances first crossed the destinies of our country and Sri Lanka in September 1961 at the First Non-Aligned Movement Summit in Belgrade, where the then Prime Minister of Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), Sirimavo Bandaranaike, participated as the first female head of government.

Today, her name is given to the airport in Colombo, the city that represents the main economic and trading center of Sri Lanka and usually the first destination for anyone coming to this country by plane.

At the beginning, let's briefly look at the history of this island, which is mentioned as early as the 5th century BCE when it began to be inhabited by Indians from the north, and later Tamils, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, and British. These peoples have, each in their own way, left a strong mark on the architecture and culture of the island, as well as everyday life in general, up to the present day. One example of a strong Western European influence is the great love of locals for cricket and tea. Sri Lanka gained independence from the British Crown only in 1948, and until the 1980s, the island led a modest and largely harmonious life. Unfortunately, that's when the bloody and tragic 26-year civil war between the government and a political-paramilitary organization called the Tamil Tigers began. Even today, ten years after the end of the war, its consequences and strong Tamil influence can be felt in the country, especially in the north, in places like Jaffna and Vavuniya. Hinduism prevails here as a religion, and one of the two official languages is Tamil. In all other parts of the country, Buddhism and Sinhala language are more prevalent.

But let's get back to the journey...

The official capital of Sri Lanka is Sri Jayawardenepura Kote (not a spelling mistake, ed.), but Colombo is the center of events, the most populous city, the home to numerous high-end restaurants and shops, and the starting point of this Ceylonese adventure. One of the most representative and oldest buildings in the city is the Old Dutch Hospital dating back to the 17th century, now a popular restaurant and open-air shopping district, one of the must-visit city attractions. In the unique ambiance of this unusual restaurant that leaves a positive impression itself, the price of a beer, for example, ranges from around 300 to 400 rupees, which converts to approximately 170 to 240 RSD, further enhancing the excellent first impression of the city. After a refreshing break with the famous Sri Lankan Lion Beer (Lion Brewery), a walking adventure through the vibrant and bustling Pettah district begins, where you can find everything you need and don't need, both in stores and kiosks, on the pavement, and all around, similar to our flea markets but on a higher level of "chaos."

Colombo is embraced by the waters of the Indian Ocean, along which stretches a beautiful and long promenade with a stunning view of the vast third-largest marine area in the world on one side, and modern office buildings on the other. This promenade is very popular for flying kites during weekends and holidays (a traditional Indian game), and along the entire coast, you can find food stalls selling seafood with rice at very affordable prices of 200-300 dinars for our pockets, as well as portions of exotic fruits (50 to 100 dinars), drinks, children's toys, and numerous souvenirs. More or less, like in all coastal and modern cities, which Colombo is. However, the real adventure begins when you leave the largest city.

In the central part of this island, there is the so-called cultural triangle with the most significant cultural heritage. One of them is Sigiriya or the Lion Rock, which is on the UNESCO list of protected monuments. There are many legends associated with this rock. One says that there was a Buddhist monastery at the top of this structure, while another claims that Prince Kashyapa imprisoned his father in the walls to become the king and built his palace at the top. For the locals, it is a sacred place and a "wonder" because at the time when the Lion Rock was built, water sprouted at the top of the hill, and no one could explain the cause.

In the vicinity of Sigiriya, there are places like Anuradhapura, the home of Buddhist temples, and Polonnaruwa, the site of the former royal palace, which represent the backbone of Buddhist culture on the island. Also, the main cultural center and part of the cultural triangle is the town of Kandy. This town is located in the hills, making it an ideal place to escape from the daily heat and humidity that can overwhelm other parts of Sri Lanka. What makes this town famous and culturally significant is the temple where the Tooth Relic of Buddha is kept. Every July, a ten-day carnival called Esala Perahera is held here in honor of this relic. Although the event starts in the evening, both locals and tourists occupy the front rows along the streets from early morning when the sun rises. The procession features elephants adorned in colorful costumes, musicians playing traditional drums, and dancers with various types of performances depending on the day.

Through Kandy, a railway known even beyond the borders of Sri Lanka also passes. The route starts from Colombo and covers almost the entire diameter of the island. Just like in India, traffic rules are not strictly followed or simply nonexistent here, so many Sri Lankans jump in and out of trains whenever they want, often outside the stations. That's one of the main reasons why it's impossible to predict how long the train journey will take. Generally, it takes about 6-7 hours between two end destinations, but a 12-hour journey wouldn't be a surprise for the islanders. There's practically no timetable, so the experience of traveling on a crowded train that doesn't know when it will reach the destination becomes an adventure in itself, one that not everyone would find enjoyable. However, the landscapes the train passes through are breathtaking and worth every moment of the journey. Through the window, you can see rows of fields and plantations of different types of plants used for tea, as well as hardworking tea pickers collecting leaves in an authentic, traditional manner. Despite the tropical climate, the local population cannot go a day without a cup of hot tea, as Sri Lanka is one of the world's largest tea producers. During the hours-long train ride, the train crosses a bridge with nine arches (also known as the Bridge in the Sky), making fans of the Harry Potter young wizard's tale feel like they're on their way to Hogwarts.

The ultimate destination of this railway adventure is on the eastern coast of the country, where the surfer's haven known as Arugam Bay is located. This bay attracts experienced professional surfers from all over the world, and due to strong currents and high waves, it is not recommended for beginners in this sport (for those who are stepping on a surfboard for the first time and want to "dance" on the waves, the southwest coast and bays are more suitable, rather than the open ocean). Renting a surfboard and equipment costs around 600 Serbian dinars (depending on the surfing spot), while a three-hour lesson with an instructor and all the equipment costs around 1500 dinars. We can all agree that this is more than affordable for a unique experience at a world-famous location...

As one moves further south of the island, where European influence is stronger, the number of tourists also increases. This can be particularly seen at the very end of the southern coast in the town of Galle. The Dutch have left the greatest mark here, followed by the Portuguese and the British to a lesser extent. Galle Fort represents the heart of the town and actually its largest part. It features a clock tower, a lighthouse, and several Catholic churches, mostly built during the 19th and 20th centuries. The town is quite urbanized and tourist-friendly. The symbol of this region is stilt fishermen, who can be considered synonymous with the whole of Sri Lanka and are a frequent subject of photographs and postcards. Balancing on stilts, they catch fish, and even tourists can test their skills and learn this craft.

The entire Southern Province was affected by a devastating tsunami in 2004, but the remnants of this great natural disaster are barely visible today. Although it is recommended to visit this country from December to April, it can be said that Sri Lanka is a good choice for traveling all year round. The specificity of this island is that, although often influenced by monsoons, they never cover the whole country but only certain parts. This means that there is always a place for surfing and enjoying calm waters.

Since many nations and cultures have passed through the island and left their marks, Sri Lanka can now offer something for everyone. Relaxing on beaches with a cold drink under palm trees, rafting, hiking, diving, surfing, or hot air ballooning are just some of the options. For food enthusiasts and those who like to experiment in the kitchen, this island offers a wide range of unusual traditional dishes, spices, and drinks. Nature lovers have the opportunity to visit some of the national parks or go on safaris and camping trips, while history and tradition enthusiasts will have a hard time deciding which religion to explore first or which museum to visit.

Lastly, what is a special and indescribable experience for everyone is the hospitality and warmth of the island's inhabitants. Living modestly and in secret fear of new conflicts, they are always willing to share what little they have with others, which is perhaps the greatest value cherished by this country.