Samothrace - the Island of Reserved Wilderness and Mighty Gods

Miloš Ničić
5 min
13 July 2020.
Guide

Greek islands would actually be more accurately referred to as islands in Greece, as they don't all share the same characteristics, nature, culture, climate, and population. Therefore, it would be better to view them as independent enclaves of deep civilization in the azure waters of the Aegean Sea and to wonder what historical and natural conditions have made them so special - both among themselves and in relation to the entire Mediterranean. Such uniqueness is also shared by Samothrace, an island anchored to the eastern part of the northern Aegean, just a few nautical miles away from Turkish territorial waters.

This island has been privileged for decades as a retreat for Greeks, with very few foreign tourists. It has built this position with its untamed nature, which resembles the mainland of Thrace and the tripoint of Bulgaria/Turkey/Greece, where it is located, rather than the characteristic landscapes of the Cyclades or the Dodecanese. And for those willing to seek the charms of the destination "between the lines," Samothrace offers love at first sight.

Nature is wild on Samothrace, as if the goddess Gaia spared no effort when shaping the Earth, as it is home to more natural thermal springs, waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and other evidence of a turbulent geological past than any other nearby island. Nature takes the lead on this island, subtly overshadowing any attempt by tourism to put it in the background, emphasizing the clichés of summer vacations - sand, beaches, and straw umbrella cafes.

Instead of an endless series of such images, Samothrace offers vertical polished rocks next to which cold, massive, and fast waterfalls cascade, allowing you to hike all the way to the lake at the bottom. The tallest waterfall in all of Greece, named Hanging Water, springs from a rock here at a height of 180 meters and plunges into the Aegean Sea. Dense coniferous and deciduous forests, vast stretches of green slopes, separate this island from the typical imagined landscape of the Aegean archipelago, offering the possibility of a different kind of vacation, or more importantly, a visit during the months outside the scorching summer period. The most striking series of "barrels," micro-lakes formed by cascading waterfalls, is called Gria nera, and many locals will recommend that you visit it, as well as the thermal springs, of which the island has three facilities that are well-maintained and adapted for comfortable use.

Samothrace, green and remote from traditional weekend tourist trajectories, hides a lot in its mountains, which are among the highest in the Mediterranean - the peak poetically named Fengari (moon), with a height of over 1600 meters, is often snow-capped, allowing for swimming with a view of the snow. According to mythological sources, it was from there that Poseidon watched the Trojan War. Traces of ancient times don't end there, as proud locals will immediately point out to you; they extend all the way to the central strip of the Louvre in Paris, where one of the most beloved statues in the world is kept in cultural captivity - the Winged Victory of Samothrace. The renowned Janson, author of one of the most widely used textbooks on the history of art, called it "the most significant masterpiece of Hellenistic sculpture," not without reason. Carved in the second century BCE, Nike represents a figure of action and triumph, with spectacularly spread wings and the promise that some of the highest achievements in creativity lie hidden in techniques and sensibilities discovered millennia ago. A contemporary copy of this statue is kept in the Great Gods sanctuary complex, a significant archaeological site and a source of great pride for the local population.

Villages on Samothrace are cascading settlements spread across numerous slopes, places of suitable architecture and vibrant public spaces around squares. In addition to Kamariotissa Port, the village of Thermi stands out, just 14 kilometers away (which also means "thermal springs," which can be expected nearby). Besides hotels and apartments, it offers several camping sites, ensuring that the center of summer hustle, entertainment, and nightlife happens right there. Below the village, there are beaches from where boats depart for circular tours around the island, offering opportunities to capture stunning photos in shades of white, green, and blue, for those who capture mountains, forests, and the sea in the same frame. The café in the square in the village of Therma is known for its good selection of meze, which is accompanied by local tsipouro. Since Greeks rarely drink alcohol without meze, sitting in cafes is long and enriching. The capital (actually a village) of the island is Hora, nestled 6 kilometers up the hill from the port, strategically built at a safe distance from pirates to establish a vibrant Samothrace community. A special mountain treat is the village of Profitis Ilias, with traditional taverns and an open view to the south.

Among Greeks, Samothrace holds a special place because it allows an escape from the grind of tourism, and its inhabitants are said to be the jewel in the crown of the northern Aegean. They admire their unique goat-rearing methods, where animals freely roam the island and always drink seawater during their daily routes from the plateau to the coast and back. Roast from Samothrace is famous throughout the country and justifies the popular fascination of the rest of the nation. One of the first cooperatives for olive oil production was established during the 19th century in the local valleys, paving the way for today's agricultural activities – olive cultivation and processing for export. The best way to obtain excellent olive oil is to ask a local grocer to direct you straight to the producer, especially if you emphasize that you will be taking the oil back to your country. Olive oil is also the main ingredient in the local delicacy called Haslamas, which is made exclusively on this island with a little flour, semolina, and water.

The beaches are mostly sandy but also have fine gravel. Among them, Pahia Ammos, Kupos, and Vatos stand out with their beauty, especially considering that practically the entire northern coast of the island is a kilometer-long beach that, with a little effort to find, offers spectacular coves and corners for sunbathing and swimming. Therefore, Samothrace is definitely a DIY island where nature is not mediated by a strong tourist infrastructure but richly rewards those who embrace it with a little dedication.