Peloponnese - Unforgettable Train Adventure (Part 1)

Railways are usually not the first thing that comes to mind when mentioning Greece. However, many are unaware of the fact that this nearby country hides two true railway gems that make the hearts of train enthusiasts around the world beat faster, as well as delighting many tourists after they experience them.

Until 2011, the Peloponnese could be traversed extensively using a narrow-gauge railway network (with a gauge of 1000 mm, similar to the tram lines in Belgrade) spanning over 700 km. Unfortunately, one of the many cost-cutting measures implemented during the financial crisis that hit Greece in the early 2000s involved the discontinuation of railway services throughout the Peloponnese.

But was it really everywhere?

Actually, no, because two small railways successfully resisted closure and continue to offer tourists and the curious the opportunity to enjoy one of the most beautiful parts of Greece from a rather unusual perspective - by train.

One of these railways connects the cruise ship port of Katakolo and ancient Olympia - the birthplace of the Olympic Games. This railway is highly significant for tourists arriving on floating giants, as it quickly and easily transports them to ancient archaeological sites and museums. However, we will not dwell on that but rather embark on a journey about a train dedicated to this story...

In the second half of the 19th century, there was a frantic effort to connect the young Greek state. As the main lines were being built between major cities in the Peloponnese, the idea of creating a network of branch lines starting from the towns already served by the main lines emerged. A gauge of 750 mm was chosen for these lines (railway enthusiasts will notice that it is 10 mm narrower than the gauge of the Sargan Eight and its "Bosnian" track). In early 1889, it was decided that the first (and as time would show, the only) such line would be built between the towns of Diakopto and Kalavrita.

The tranquil town on the shores of the Corinthian Gulf, Diakopto, is located 160 km from Athens and is home to the starting station of the narrow-gauge Diakopto-Kalavrita railway. Due to its steep gradient (as much as 17.5%), a rack railway system was used on a section of the track. The system is quite simple - the train has a cogwheel and the track has cogs, allowing the entire composition to move despite the steep incline. Thanks to this addition, the train also gained an appropriate nickname - Οδοντωτός or in free translation, "Toothy".

The total length of the railway is 22.35 km, of which 3.8 km have cogwheels. The maximum train speed is 40 km/h, and on cogwheel sections, it is 12 km/h. The one-way journey takes a little over an hour, during which an elevation difference of approximately 750 m is overcome.

The railway's design was entrusted to French experts, while the construction mostly involved Italian workers with experience in similar terrains, like the domestic Alps. From the very beginning, engineers proposed electrifying the railway by building power plants along the fast-flowing Vouraikos River. However, this idea was abandoned, and the initial trains were steam-powered until the late 1950s when diesel traction was introduced. One of the first locomotives to pull trains on this line has been completely restored and currently represents the sole active steam locomotive in Greece. From 2003 to 2009, the railway underwent reconstruction, and new traction vehicles were acquired, so now passengers enjoy air-conditioned trains provided by the Swiss company "Stadler."

According to the 2019 timetable, passengers have three daily trains available, which increases to five on weekends. Except for occasional disruptions due to natural disasters or reconstruction, the railway has been operational since its opening—now for a full 123 years. Special tariffs apply to tourist railways like this one, and the "Toothy" is no exception. Currently, the price of a one-way ticket is 9.5 euros. One might face a dilemma: four gyros or a ride on a heritage railway?! For us, there is no doubt—the iron horse prevails, and we can settle into the composition that cheerfully hums and awaits departure.

After just a few minutes of the journey, the town is left behind, and hills come into view, which will soon be traversed. The railway largely follows the course of the Vouraikos River and abounds in bridges and tunnels that conquer the challenging and inaccessible terrain. The unique railway blends exceptionally well with the surroundings, giving passengers the impression that the wild landscape only needed a railway to shine brightly. Time flies while enjoying the breathtaking scenery of the fast river canyon, and after about forty minutes of the ride, the train stops at the only intermediate station - Zachlorou. Here, passengers can disembark and enjoy the untouched nature by following numerous mountain trails, but most of those who get off here have a different goal - Mega Spilaion Monastery. It is one of the oldest monasteries in Greece, perched on the steep rock on the western side of Mount Helmos. We continue our journey and soon arrive at the final station, the mountain town of Kalavrita. Not far from the town is a well-known ski center with about ten slopes. For those not interested in skiing, they will also not be disappointed – they can refresh themselves in one of the numerous cafes or taverns.

Charming hotels, delightful restaurants, and untouched nature hide a town that has witnessed great but also tragic events. At Agia Lavra Monastery near Kalavrita, the cry Ελευθερία ή θάνατος - freedom or death was first heard on March 25, 1821, which initiated the uprising against the Ottoman Empire. In front of the monastery, the revolutionary flag was raised for the first time by Bishop Germanos of Patras. The struggle for independence ended after eight years of fighting, leading to the creation of an independent Greek state.

The saddest day for Kalavrita is December 13 because on that day in 1943, as retaliation for killed captives, German occupation forces attacked the town and surrounding villages, resulting in the massacre of almost all men and complete destruction of the area. The next day, Agia Lavra Monastery was set on fire. On the fiftieth anniversary of the massacre, a museum was established in the old school building to preserve the memory of the victims.

After the war, the town was rebuilt and over the years, it has become a tourist center of the region. Besides its exceptional natural beauty and ski resorts, the railway undoubtedly contributes significantly to that.

The sun is shining, the slopes are ready for skiers, lamb is roasting, but we must move on. We bid farewell to Kalavrita and Peloponnese and head north to the next story, where another train awaits us, the popular "Garavko" from Mount Pelion.

To be continued...

Author: Mihailo Popesku