Pelion - a Mountain Necklace Bound by Iron

Thessaly, a fertile central Greek plain, ends in the east with the mountain and region of Pelion, a hook-shaped peninsula that, by embracing the Aegean waters with its winding land, forms the Bay of Volos and a mountain-sea microcosm, beloved both in summer and winter. Particularly dear to the Greeks, as it offers a peaceful retreat for those who provide rest to others in various parts of this country during the tourist season, Pelion deserves every attention – in autumn, spring, and summer, and even in winter, with its Agriolefkes ski center situated at nearly 1400 meters above sea level.

The way we choose to explore this hilly peninsula says something about ourselves – whether we prefer the traditional and demanding horseback riding and donkey riding, adventurous hiking down waterfalls and rafting through rapids, or adrenaline-fueled off-roading and other powerful four-wheel drives. Whichever way we choose, we will need patience to explore its scattered villages, cascading on the sunny, Aegean-facing side or the shady, bay-facing side.

Pelion is connected to the ancient period as an inaccessible, densely forested area where mythical creatures reside, the most notable being the mention of Centaur Chiron, the noblest among his anthropomorphic horse race, who taught Jason, Achilles, Theseus, and Heracles. Pelion remains inaccessible; covered in dense groves, it provided excellent refuge for the poor population that sought shelter in its mountains from Ottoman oppression and taxation. Leaving behind bustling ports and wealthy shores, the people retreated to hard-to-reach places, descending to the coast only briefly to sell chestnuts, cheese, sheepskins, and textiles. With the advent of industrial products, the local population lost prominence in production and trade, leading to many emigrating to Egypt, where they became significantly wealthy. Testimonies of these migrations and successes on another continent are seen in the village mansions in Neoclassical style, now often museums or municipal buildings. Thus, the entire peninsula is crisscrossed with numerous walking trails, some paved with cobblestones, some marked only by boundaries, leading to many small coves where bustling trade took place before returning to the safety of the mountain heights. On those cobbled, cascading roads, special attention was paid to the depth of the footpath, nearly one meter, as it was necessary for a burdened animal to step. Today, these polished roads provide an excellent opportunity to "get lost" in the greenery while gazing towards the open sea (the circular tour of Pouri is particularly enticing due to the multitude of stone arch bridges encountered along the way).

Pelion is synonymous with narrow-gauge mountain railway, a design and construction gem from the 19th century that connected these numerous well-thought-out mountain villages, symbolically affirming the enthusiasm of moments of liberation from conquerors through clear modernization and the construction of a modern nation and state. The track width of only 60 centimeters and the locomotives from the end of the 19th century that still operate today make this mode of transport a tourist attraction, especially the section from Ano Lechonia to Mileai, which is particularly interesting due to its stone and steel bridges. One of the main engineers on this railway was the Italian Edward de Cirico, the father of the famous painter Georges de Cirico, who spent part of his childhood in these areas alongside the railway. This sentiment is immortalized in the scenes of steam locomotives in many of his paintings (Piazza d'Italia, The Anxious Journey, The Soothsayer's Recompense). The railway has provided the people of Pelion with a connection to the city of Volos, but it has also become an alternative highway of sorts because local residents often drive cars along the railway, claiming that this route choice is safer and more reliable. When asked what they do when they encounter a locomotive, they respond that they somehow manage because they know the train driver.

Pelion is known for its village squares, extremely pleasant centers of towns where you can find indispensable cafes, grocery stores, and large plane trees in the middle. The oldest and largest trees are found in the towns of Agias Paraskevis (1,200 years old) and Kissos (800 years old). Enjoying bitter coffee with Turkish delight under these plane trees, with unlimited views of Volos or the open sea, is a true delight and an opportunity to create unique postcards while experiencing the local pride and the genuine care of the residents towards this ecological heritage. If you are in Kissos, be sure to visit the church of Agia Marina, with its extraordinary interior and enviable location. The locals will tell you that it is one of the oldest continuously used churches, built in 1650 by three generations of a village family.

Particularly pleasant and enticing are the labyrinthine streets of the charming villages of Makrinitsa and Portaria, located just above Volos. During Ottoman rule, prominent Turks built weekend houses in these mountain villages to escape the city's summer heat and hustle during the unbearable July and August heat in the valley. The splendor of colonial villas, surrounded by shady gardens, oleanders, and evergreen trees, with refreshing wells, still offers that possibility today. If you are traveling through this part of Greece, be sure to spend the night in one of these villages; there will be no need for air conditioning. A special atmosphere is created if you take a walk through the center early on Sunday morning, accompanied by the sounds of liturgy and the sight of stone, from which everything here is built, giving you a kind of Byzantine feeling that doesn't last long, only until the first TV is turned on on a terrace, but despite that, it is spectacular.

Greece is known for its large number of wild medicinal and gastronomic plants, and the Pelion Peninsula is the place with the highest concentration of all its 1,000 endemic and 6,000 registered species. It is not surprising that feasts in this region are connected to the use of local spices and recipes adapted to them. Everything you try will probably be excellent because Greeks are particularly sensitive to food and value the tradition of good hospitality, but here, the spetsofai stands out – a cooked dish similar to a traditional goulash with local sausages but enriched with local herbs. The indispensable drink is tsipouro, always accompanied by a micro meze – a few olives, a piece of fish. The oldest café in Greece, opened in 1785, is located here, in the little-known village of Lafkos.

The coast of Pelion begins where its cliffs plunge into the Aegean, leaving only a shy strip of sand where you can settle. This appearance of the beaches evokes the geographic monumentality at any moment spent on the beach because you can feel the mountain presence directly, even when swimming towards the open sea. This can be experienced most strongly on the beaches of Fakistra and Potistika, Tsakarada and Damouchari. The last two are also a kind of micro-bays, with appropriate taverns and a very pleasant color scheme created by the combination of forests and the Aegean Sea. The movie Mamma Mia was partially filmed on Damuchari Beach because it is located near Sporades (Skopelos), where the main filming location was, which the locals will proudly remind you of.

Pelion offers a multitude of challenges and opportunities for exploration and enjoyment, whether it's outdoor sports or Byzantine luxury embodied in churches and architecture, whether it's sailing from the small ports of the Volos Gulf or sipping coffee or drinks under centuries-old plane trees in the centers of scattered cascading villages. It is particularly enjoyable to find a local spot overlooking the routes of the Volos-Skiathos ferry, and in the twilight and early night, watch the lights of these necessary mechanical marine mastodons, recalling the poem Ithaca by Konstantinos Cavafy:

You should wish for the journey to be long.

Many summer mornings should it last

with what gratitude, what joy, you enter harbors seen for the first time [...]

(translation by Ksenija Maricki Gađanski)

Recommendation for watching: The Teacher with the Blue Hair, a movie filmed in Pelion.

Recommendation for reading: Stone Arch Bridges of Greece.

Recommendation for listening: Giannis Paulopoulos – Meres tou kalokairiou.

Author: Miloš Ničić