Palilula | Belgrade Neighborhood's Names

If Voždovac is the southern and Zvezdara the eastern gate of the capital, Palilula is certainly the northern gateway and also the largest territorial municipality of the City of Belgrade.

Stretching on both sides of the Danube, from the Banat's Karaš canal all the way to the center of Belgrade, Palilula covers an area of about 450 square kilometers and with over 180,000 inhabitants, it is one of the most densely populated municipalities in Serbia.

Church of St. Mark, one of the symbols of Palilula
Church of St. Mark, one of the symbols of Palilula

There are no reliable records about the origin of the municipality's name, but two historical facts might offer an explanation. The first is that in the early 19th century, when Belgrade was just a town surrounded by a rampart, smoking was prohibited inside the town due to the easily flammable roofs. Anyone who wanted to smoke a pipe had to leave the city, and that suburban area of Belgrade was named Palilula. The second fact is that in the area of present-day Karaburma in the early 19th century, there was a clay pit used by many pottery workshops. Allegedly, the kilns where the pottery was fired had the shape of a pipe (lula in Serbian), which is why this part of the city was called Palilula.

Regardless, Palilula has expanded over the years and now extends across the river, becoming the largest municipality in Belgrade, with many neighborhoods bearing intriguing names.

Bogoslovija

Bogoslovija is not a typical residential neighborhood, but it is certainly one of the most recognizable parts of the city, thanks to the circular intersection bearing the same name. It is where several major traffic arteries of Belgrade intersect, such as Mija Kovačević Street, Dragoslav Srejović Street, and Severni Bulevar. In its immediate vicinity, there are several significant public buildings, including the Karaburma Military Medical Center, the Youth Stadium, the Military-Geographical Institute, the Fire Brigade building, and the School of Theology, from which this area gets its name.

Toblerone building in Bogoslovija
The iconic "Toblerone" building in Bogoslovija (PHOTO: Ivan Aleksić)

Hadžipopovac

When heading from Bogoslovija towards the city center along Mija Kovačević Street, you'll reach Hadžipopovac, a neighborhood unofficially bordered by Čarli Čaplin Street, Zdravko Čelar Street, Cvijićeva Street, and Roosevelt Street. One of the oldest parts of Palilula is named after Nikola Hadži-Popović (1819-1902), a lawyer and judge of the Grand Court of the Principality of Serbia, who owned a large estate with fields in this area. Interestingly, in the late 19th century, he was not allowed to divide and sell the land as plots because settling in the vicinity of the cemetery (Novo Groblje) was prohibited by law at that time.

Professors' Colony

The name of this neighborhood, consisting of Jaša Prodanović Street, Stojan Novaković Street, Ljuba Stojanović Street, and Račkog Street, indicates that it is the most elegant and beautifully arranged part of Palilula. In the late 1920s, about forty professors from the University of Belgrade built their houses in these streets. The most prominent figure among them was Milutin Milanković, who lived in Ljuba Stojanović Street for more than thirty years. Today, the toponym "Professors' Colony" refers to a slightly larger area bordered by Mitropolita Petra Street, Braće Grim Street, Cvijićeva Street, and Despot Stefan Boulevard, and it still represents one of the most attractive parts of Belgrade for living.

Professors' Colony
Jaša Prodanović Street, the core of the Professors' Colony (PHOTO: Google Street View)

Viline Vode

Unlike the neighboring Professors' Colony, whose name largely defines the character of the neighborhood, Viline Vode gives a completely wrong impression with its gentle and romantic name. This part of Palilula, despite its name, represents the largest industrial zone in Belgrade, located just a kilometer away from the city center. Led by Luka Beograd (Belgrade Port), the symbol of this area is numerous warehouses, hangars, and storage facilities, abandoned railway tracks, and old industrial buildings. Although there have been plans since ancient times for this part of Belgrade to become a luxurious residential zone, not much progress has been made from the initial idea. The neighborhood, bounded by the right bank of the Danube, Pančevo Bridge (Ada Huja), Despot Stefan Boulevard, and Vojvode Dobrnjca Street and Knežopoljska Street, derives its name from the popular belief that fairies live in the underground streams, of which there are many in this area (due to the proximity to the Danube).

Karaburma

The most populous neighborhood of Palilula, consisting of multiple parts, stretches from Bogoslovija towards Zvezdara Forest (up to Dragoslav Srejović Street), Ada Huja (up to Mirijevski Boulevard), and Mirijevo. It is called Karaburma. The intensive settlement of this part of the city began only in the 1960s, preceded by extensive embankment of the right bank of the Danube, the filling of the "dunavac" (Danube backwater), and the connection of the former river island of Ada Huja with the riverbank. And why was all this done?! Because the hill rising next to Karaburma (Zvezdara Hill) was once a difficult-to-access rocky promontory overlooking the mighty river. On old Ottoman and Austrian maps, it was marked as kaya burun, which could be interpreted as a rocky promontory. Hence, it can be assumed that the current name was inherited and modified over time to adapt to our language. Another explanation for the name Karaburma can be found in the fact that the Turks would marry disobedient subjects with death in this area. Since death is black (kara), and the wedding ring, translated into Turkish, is called burma, the name Karaburma is derived from this. However, due to the lack of preserved written and material evidence, neither of these two variants can be reliably confirmed and remains in the realm of folklore.

Panorama of Karaburma
Panorama of Karaburma (PHOTO: Alekol)

Ćalije

For some, a part of Karaburma, for others, a part of Mirijevo, Ćalije is a small section of Palilula that connects these two large settlements. Located on the left side of Mirijevski Creek (Mirijevski Boulevard), Ćalije extend to the west towards Zvezdara Forest. The unusual name is also attributed to the Turkish conquerors. Namely, in Turkish, çali means bushes or shrubs, so it can be assumed that during that time, this part of the city, which was then a distant periphery, was covered in the same vegetation. The name was inherited and has remained to this day.

Rospi Ćuprija

Rospi Cuprija is the name for a part of Palilula that extends on the right side of the lower course of Mirijevski Creek (starting from Mirijevski Boulevard) and in the vicinity of the intersection of Višnjički and Slanački Road. An interesting legend is associated with the unusual name of this area, and once again, it has Turkish origins. The folklore says that there used to be a ferry at this location that connected the left and right banks of the Danube. Allegedly, on a bridge, men who came to Belgrade for trading were greeted by ladies who practiced the oldest profession. Since rospija is the original Turkish term for a promiscuous woman and a prostitute, this somewhat unattractive area got its name.

Višnjička Banja

Višnjička Banja is a well-planned settlement known for its typical buildings made of red brick and perhaps the most beautiful view of the Danube in the entire city. It is located on a hill between Višnjički and Slanački Road, in the area once known as Višnjičko Polje. The name, of course, comes from the nearby village of Višnjica, which, in turn, got its name due to the cherry orchards that traditionally thrive in this area (as well as along the entire right bank of the Danube to Grocka). But why "Banja" (Spa)? Because, until World War II, there were natural healing and hot sulfur springs surfacing at the foot of the hill, which were used for treating rheumatism by the old residents of Belgrade, and even the Romans were aware of them. For decades, and even today, the mineral waters of Višnjička Banja flow into the sewage system, waiting for better times and potential revitalization of the spa.

Visnjicka Banja
Recognizable "red" buildings in Višnjička Banja (PHOTO: Google Street View)

Krnjača

The first neighborhood of Palilula that you come across after crossing the Pančevački Bridge, stepping onto the left bank of the Danube, and heading towards Zrenjaninski Road is called Krnjača. There are no reliable records about the origin of this unusual toponym, so once again, we have to rely on folklore. According to legends, at the beginning of the 20th century, the vast area of this (then) village was part of the large Pančevački Marsh, a swamp where the people of Belgrade often went for hunting. Allegedly, there was a large gnarled willow tree where hunters would gather, and that's how the entire area got its name, which it has kept to this day. This spacious neighborhood extends on both sides of Zrenjaninski Road and consists of several residential blocks.

Kotež

Planned as a workers' settlement in the late 1960s, Kotež has expanded so much that it now covers the entire area between the Sebeš Canal and Kalovita, on the western side of "Zrenjaninac" Road. Although relatively recent, little is known about the name of this neighborhood, and again, it's not certain. It is presumed that the basis of the name comes from the French term le cottage, which means a cabin or cottage and implies a peaceful part of the city.

Kotež Neighborhood
Kotež, one of the greenest neighborhoods in Belgrade (PHOTO: Nenad Mikšin)

Borča

Alongside Karaburma, Borča is the largest neighborhood in Palilula with a long history (unlike the others on the left bank of the Danube) and written records dating back to the 15th century. Being part of the Kingdom of Hungary, it initially appeared in documents as a marshy settlement called Barcza. Since this word has no specific meaning in Hungarian, it can be assumed that it has Slavic origins and is related to ponds and marshes, which have always been abundant in the vicinity of Borča. With over 70,000 inhabitants, Borča is now the most populous neighborhood in Palilula. It is divided into an urban and rural part, separated by Zrenjaninski Road.

Padinska Skela

The furthest neighborhood of Palilula stretches deep into the Banat plain and runs alongside Zrenjaninski Road, while its hinterland, all the way to the Danube, is covered by vast fields and the properties of PKB (Public Enterprise for Agricultural Land). As a traditional agricultural and livestock settlement, it got its name from its first inhabitants – livestock breeders from the Slovak village of Padina, near Kovačica, who often crossed the river channels and branches using ferries.