Jerma Canyon - Hidden Magic from People | Where to Go for a Trip?!
- Vesna Milić Radosavljević
- 5 min
- 24 October 2022.
- Guide
Nature Reserve "Jerma" - the magic hidden in the river canyon
The rocky slopes of Greben and Vlaška Mountain, between which the icy river Jerma flows, create a unique canyon in Serbia, officially designated and protected as the special nature reserve "Jerma". This place, due to its natural beauty, looks almost magical, and its mystique is enhanced by landscapes that geography jealously preserves for animal and plant species - pits, caves, sinkholes, valleys, and cliffs. In addition to its natural features, the Jerma Canyon is rich in spiritual wealth - monasteries built centuries ago. The constant sound of Jerma is the ambient sound of the vastness that is home to a variety of plants and animals, and its mystique attracts many people to the southeasternmost part of Serbia.
How to get to Jerma?
Jerma Canyon is located about thirty kilometers from Pirot. From this city, you continue eastward towards Dimitrovgrad and the border with Bulgaria, then turn right towards the Sukovo Monastery. The magic begins shortly after turning off the main road. Already at the village of Vlasi, there is a breathtaking view of the steep valley sides that reach heights of up to 700 meters within the canyon. This is a place worth stopping and simply enjoying the view of the epic beauty of the landscape. The massifs of Greben and Vlaška Mountain have provided refuge for a river in which, due to extremely low temperatures, one cannot stay for more than a few minutes, even in the middle of summer.
Continuing further through the canyon, one fully experiences its energy, as the road is carved into the rocks that loom over the road, and the road is dotted with short tunnels. The canyon itself stretches to Zvonačka Banja, and along the way, there are many natural and cultural landmarks that should be included in the travel itinerary of this part of Serbia.
A day trip easily becomes a weekend getaway
To visit this protected area, it is worth setting aside at least a whole day. However, the Jerma Canyon offers much more than just admiring its impressive cliffs and coves. Here, one can find accommodations, enjoy rock climbing, hiking tours, as well as visit monasteries - Sukovo and Poganovo. That's why even a few days spent in this reserve would be filled with various experiences. Those who find themselves near Jerma should definitely visit the viewpoints of Tikva and Mumulj, Ravni Kamik, Vlaško and Odorovačko Gorge, Cediljka Gorge, Vetrena Dupka Cave, the excursion site of Trnski Odorovci, and many other places of exceptional natural beauty. Even after leaving the canyon, travelers will encounter beautiful villages, meadows, forests, and untouched nature on a, unfortunately, poor road to Babušnica.
Treasures of the Canyon: Medieval Monasteries
The Monastery of St. John the Theologian is one of the busiest and most famous spots near the Jerma River, located near the village of Poganovo. It was built in the late 14th century and is adorned with exceptional architecture, making it a cultural monument itself. The value of this building is also in its interior, specifically the vivid frescoes of exceptional artistic value, created one century after the church itself. The monastery is located on the right side of the river, which is crossed by a narrow suspension bridge to reach this place of worship. Near the monastery and the river is the Poganovski Monastery Restaurant, which offers various grilled specialties and traditional dishes.
Several hundred years younger, Sukovo Monastery was built in the mid-19th century and is another Orthodox place of worship near the Jerma River. It is located near the village of the same name, at the foot of the Carev kamen hill, and is dedicated to the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God. This monastery is also on the map of many who visit the "Jerma" nature reserve.
Enjoying the Delicacies of the Pirot Region
The restaurant near Jovanovo Monastery (Poganovski Monastery), as locals call it, is not the only gastronomic paradise in this part of eastern Serbia. The widely renowned peglana kobasica (pressed sausage) and Pirot cheese, as well as many other specialties of this region, can be found on the menus of other restaurants and taverns in the Jerma Canyon. Within a stretch of about ten kilometers, you can find Konak Toša, Poganovska Šopka, Ethno house Dundjerovi, Konak Lili Hit, and all of them serve specialties of traditional Serbian cuisine with a local twist. Each of these hospitality establishments is surrounded by almost untouched nature, allowing guests to enjoy both the bites and the views. However, the Opančić restaurant stands out due to its position, with its view stretching over the fast-flowing river and the imposing rock walls. From its garden, one can even see rock formations reminiscent of those in Devil's Town. Nevertheless, along the entire route through the "Jerma" reserve, one should be cautious of landslides, which are not uncommon.
Camping Under the Open Sky
For avid nature lovers who don't mind having only a piece of synthetic fabric as their roof and are willing to spend several days in a camp, mid-August is the perfect time to visit the Jerma Canyon. That's when the Outdoor Festival Jerma takes place, offering numerous activities for adventurers. Hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, cave exploration, and other sports and recreational pursuits are ideal for those who enjoy an active vacation. The festival itself lasts for five days, and besides camping, it is possible to reserve accommodation in one of the many rural households. Guests will undoubtedly be delighted by the kindness and hospitality of their hosts in the villages along the Jerma, who will welcome them with open hearts, gates, and refrigerators.
Home to the Golden Eagle and Artists
One of the largest birds of prey in this area resides in the vicinity of the Jerma River. On Mount Ruj, whose peak Asenovo Kale reaches an elevation of about 1,000 meters above sea level, is one of the few places in Serbia where the golden eagle can be seen. This predator of impressive size and exceptional hunting abilities can have a wingspan of up to two meters. This bird has become part of the identity and a symbol of this region, and the image of the golden eagle can be seen on one of the houses in the village of Vlase. The mural is the work of the Pirot painter Ljubiša Pejčić, created during the first art colony held in this village in 2020, which showcased the natural beauty of the area through the works of several artists.
The Jerma River and its surroundings are experienced with all senses. That is why one should not miss the blessings that this nature reserve offers to visitors. Its uniqueness is testified by all the visitors who rest their bodies and souls in this place and recharge their batteries with positive energy from untouched and powerful nature. To reach the Jerma Canyon from Belgrade, take the highway to Niš, then continue towards Sofia and drive further towards Pirot. The journey takes almost 4 hours, covering a distance of about 330 kilometers. The remoteness of this region is another reason to plan a stay of at least a few days in the vicinity of the Jerma, in order to fully enjoy every moment away from urban areas.