Easter in Greece - Christ is Risen (Χριστός Ανέστη)!

Greek people are known, among other things, for having one of the largest diasporas in the world. Even the word that describes life outside the homeland, of Greek origin, is accompanied by less known but certainly more emotionally charged words - nostos (νόστος) and nostalgia (νοσταλγία). They denote the mythical return home as the final step in attaining inner happiness (nostos), but also the pain that arises from longing for home and a safe haven (nostalgia).

As one of the largest Greek communities outside the Balkans is in Germany, they will tell you themselves that Christmas is most beautiful in German cities, with squares full of wooden houses serving hot mulled wine. However, the experience of celebrating Easter cannot be compared to what is experienced on Greek soil. Therefore, the nostalgia of numerous Greeks, whether they have recently ventured to the West or have been there for generations, is strongest during the period when spring emerges in the Mediterranean and Easter festivities and celebrations are in full swing.

Easter is an atmosphere, as renowned Greek journalist Rea Vitali writes, trying to convey the entire structure of feelings shared among several generations of Greeks in their homes, each in their own way involved in the events before the actual holiday, especially during Holy Week and Easter weekend. Free time and public holidays, meadows covered in wildflowers and vases filled with daisies in apartments, Easter is an atmosphere. The period of fasting, when children eat fried potato chips all day and drink cocoa instead of milk and yogurt, delighting in this unexpected pleasure, Easter is an atmosphere. Getting ready for "that nice, festive attire" that we will pair with red shoes we dare not wear throughout the year or the dilemma of whether to buy or make tsoureki (traditional sweet bread), Easter is an atmosphere. The great but short migrations, primarily from cities back to rural hearths, where someone stayed to preserve the memory so that the children do not forget where they come from, and where there is always someone unfamiliar to ask "Whose are you?" all for the sake of a three-day celebration revolving around church-homeyard-spit, Easter is an atmosphere. And above all, the joy of gathering from all meridians, from all generational verticals, around the festive table, Easter is an irreplaceable atmosphere in the lives of Greeks, of which they are particularly proud and into which they will gladly welcome you.

Holy Week, the six-day period before Easter itself, is full of ritual activities during which Orthodox Christians in Greece prepare for the holiday. These preparations are not exclusively related to the ceremonial activities of homes and churches; the entire society is in a state of attention and planning – whether it's for going on trips, avoiding crowds, the inevitable frantic checking of the weather forecast, or buying ferry tickets if going to an island. Finding all the ingredients for the table before they sell out, chasing after homemade olive oil, and especially lamb, because it's essential.

Meanwhile, in churches, chandeliers and icons are covered with black and purple ribbons as a sign of mourning for the upcoming crucifixion of Christ, and on Holy Thursday, ovens across the country heat up during the preparation of tsoureki bread - a special kind of sweet pastry, similar to brioche, which will be enjoyed on Sunday. At the same time, eggs are dyed, primarily in red and in smaller quantities than in Serbia. At the end of the day, on Good Friday evening, a special Epithafios service takes place in churches, where the Shroud is displayed and a large number of locals, often the whole village, participate. Selected members of the community have the honor of carrying it, and the procession with the Shroud begins in the church, circling the village. If it's an island or a coastal place, the procession often goes down to the sea, symbolizing the importance of water and the endless blue expanse for the entire community. This collective participation in mystical ritual acts truly binds the members of the community in a shared experience of joy and belonging, which the author has joyfully experienced multiple times. The locals will invite you to join them, which is an opportunity not to be missed. It's a unique pleasure.

On Saturday, alongside choosing outfits and the irresistible desire to wear red shoes, there is internal struggle between "yes" and "no," all preparations are made for the evening and going to church or the square. The largest gathering takes place between 11 pm and 11:45 pm when the service is expected to end, followed by a grand fireworks display at midnight in celebration of the Resurrection, always organized by local actors and the church. Simultaneously, all the bells start ringing, and the gathered people sing "Christos Anesti" (Χριστός Ανέστη), while the priest from the altar begins to distribute the Holy Flame (Graceful Fire), candle to candle, first through the church, then the courtyard, and finally to the people gathered around. In a short moment, the whole village is illuminated by lampades, ritual candles, from the same source of flame, and after the fireworks, everyone hurries home to light the cross in front of their entrance with that flame. If they have a barn or stable, that too. Then they sit at the table and eat magiritsa - a soup made from lamb offal, and crack eggs. The night doesn't end early, rarely before 2 am, but often even later, because on Easter morning, people wake up early to prepare the spit. The atmosphere of Easter day is joyful, informal, and playful - besides plenty of food and drink, folk music is often played, and people sing and dance out loud. There's no holding back. Therefore, if you have the opportunity to be invited to a Greek Easter feast, don't miss it for anything in the world.

Although Easter is celebrated throughout Greece, one of the most memorable destinations is the island of Corfu because it not only combines influences from the East and the West but also the traditional focus on that island has contributed to the refinement and communal choreography of Easter parades and celebrations, which are spectacular. The Philharmonic Orchestra of Corfu accompanies the service on Good Friday, during which the mummified body of the island's patron saint - Saint Spyridon - is brought out to the public, leading the procession in which both locals and Greeks from various parts of the country, as well as tourists who are not familiar with Eastern Christianity, participate. In this harmonious discord, a colorful community is created, enjoyed by all. The next day, on Holy Saturday, it is customary to throw ceramic bottles and plates from windows onto the square, which is again a kind of attraction. Despite the same canonical roots of the celebration, Easter in Corfu is more impressive, powerful, and spectacular than anywhere else in the country and is definitely highly recommended.

The following day, Monday, is also a national holiday and a non-working day when the leisurely flow of time is filled with resting from the previous celebrations, enjoying the leftovers from the festive table, and gathering with friends for coffee and sweets in the afternoon. Summing up impressions and timidly planning summer can begin!

Christ is risen! Truly, He is risen!

Christ is risen! Indeed, He is risen!

Suggestion for watching: Short film by Tea Papadoulakis Greek Easter Daydreaming

Suggestion for reading: Nikos Kazantzakis - The Greek Passion

Suggestion for listening: Domna Samiou - Xristos Anesti matia mou