Belgrade Rivers...That No Longer Exist | Old Belgrade Stories

Superficially looking at the map or satellite image of Belgrade, it's hard to imagine the existence of any other rivers besides the Danube, Sava, and Topčider River.

However, to a careful observer, the terrain configuration, numerous hills, and valleys carved between them by rivers and streams will not go unnoticed. It only takes a little imagination and a momentary disregard for buildings, cars, and streets to clearly see the numerous river valleys of Belgrade - remnants of former rivers and streams that once flowed through them.

Likewise, an analytical observer will not overlook certain street names and neighborhoods in the city that testify to the recent existence of rivers: Milošev potok (Jajinci), Banjički potok, Ristin potok (Cvetanova ćuprija), Repiška (Žarkovo), Mitkov kladenac (Veliki Mokri lug), Kisela voda (Zvezdara), Bele vode, Veliki i Mali Mokri lug, Viline vode...

When we learn to observe Belgrade in this way, it will become clear to us, for example, that Knez Mihailova Street is actually the watershed between the Sava and Danube, Kneza Višeslava Street is the watershed between the Topčider and Repiška rivers, and Bulevar kralja Aleksandra is the watershed between the Bulbulder and Mokroluški potok. Numerous streets are predisposed by the former riverbeds that now lie underground, and the slopes of these valleys were once covered with gardens and vineyards. That's how the surroundings of Belgrade looked in the past.

Although most of Belgrade's rivers and streams are now hidden beneath asphalt, they clearly indicate the water richness of the capital city, back when Belgrade existed only within the boundaries of today's "Krug Dvojke" and going on an outing meant going as far as Kijevo or Bulbulder.

For the purpose of this story, we will overlook the Danube and Sava, about which mostly everything has already been written and known. We will focus on the urban part of the city, its suburbs, and the space we now call the city of Belgrade.

The formation of rivers in these areas is related to the uplift of mountain ranges and the retreat of the Pannonian Sea. Since then, rivers have been creating their pathways in the form of valleys, with varying strength. They often occur along the bottom of former Pannonian Sea bays. The largest rivers in Belgrade are permanent watercourses, some of which still flow on the surface, while others have been diverted into collectors beneath the asphalt as the city expanded and are no longer accessible. Most of the streams and rivers that will be discussed existed on the surface even after World War II, and there are still numerous photographs available online that testify to their presence. The numerous valleys that remain serve as a reminder of another time when fish and crayfish thrived in their beds.

Therefore, let's take a little walk along the banks of the forgotten rivers of Belgrade...

Topčider River

The most significant and longest river in Belgrade, after the Sava and Danube, is undoubtedly the Topčider River. It originates near Ralja and flows into the Čukarički Arm of the Sava River near the Racecourse. It is approximately 30 km long and passes through several urban and suburban settlements. The Topčider River has numerous tributaries, some of which still flow freely, while others have dried up or been channelized. The most important ones are the Rakovički, Kijevski, Lisičiji, and Kaljavi streams. On the Kijevski stream, from the late 19th century until the 1930s, there was the Kijevsko Jezero (Kijevo Lake), one of the most famous recreational areas for the city's residents at that time. There is even an unconfirmed report that Albert Einstein and Mileva Marić, when they visited Belgrade in 1905, spent a day relaxing at this lake. The Kaljavi stream, a significant right tributary of the Topčider River, originates in Kumodraž, near the present-day Torlak Institute. After passing the Avala Road, it flows through a large and deep valley that separates Banjica and Kanarevo Hill.

Vračar Stream

This is one of the shortest watercourses in former Belgrade. It flowed along Nemanjina Street from Slavija to the former Bare Venecije. Interestingly, the source of the Vračar Stream used to flood the surroundings of today's Slavija Square, creating a large marsh that was mentioned as a favorite hunting ground for the residents of Belgrade during the 19th century. The stream is now located in a collector beneath Nemanjina Street.

Bibijin Stream

It originated at the site of the current Politika building and flowed along Skadarska Street, past Bajloni Market, all the way to the Danube. Although it is now located in a collector, until recently, there was a depression in the cobblestones in the middle of Skadarska Street marking its former course.

From a strong spring that is now located beneath the foundation of the Hotel Moscow, a small stream flowed down Prizrenska Street and flooded the area of today's Zeleni Venac.

Paripovac

This is the largest stream in the Žarkovo neighborhood. Over the past few decades, part of the stream has been relocated into pipes, but it can still be seen from the Žarkovac Bridge towards the Makiš Field. The stream originated between today's Jablanička and Arčibalda Rajsa Streets and ran parallel to Ratko Mitrović and Ace Joksimović Streets, while also collecting another smaller tributary. This stream has left one of the deepest river valleys in Belgrade, cutting through from Ibarska Magistrala towards Vodovodska Street. Paripovac is now a torrential stream that often causes problems for the residents of Žarkovo.

Mokroluški Stream

It originates in the Veliki Mokri Lug neighborhood and largely follows the route of the current highway, flowing into the Sava River near the Gazela Bridge. It has been mostly channeled into a collector located beneath the highway. Along its course, it collects several tributaries, with the most significant ones being Duboki (Rimska Street, Ustanička Street), Kumodraški (Kumodraška Street), and Čuburski Stream (Južni Bulevar). It was precisely the Mokroluški Stream, together with the Vračar Stream, that created the famous Bara Venecija at the location of the former main railway station.

Bulbulder Stream

It was probably one of the most beautiful streams near the city. It flowed through the streets of Dimitrija Tucovića and Jovana Cvijića and emptied into the Danube not far from the current port. Bulbulder means "nightingale's valley" in Turkish. Along this stream, there were magnificent houses and villas, some of which can still be seen behind newly built high-rises. There were also large gardens next to the stream where vegetables were grown and sold at Belgrade's markets.

Mirijevo Stream

Once the largest stream in Mirijevo, it is now one of the most polluted watercourses in the city. It flows past Rospi Ćuprija and Mirijevski Boulevard and empties into a Danube backwater. Part of it is located in a collector, and the residents of Mirijevo and surrounding neighborhoods face significant problems with wastewater and sewage that flow into it.

Repiški Stream

It is also located in the territory of the former village of Žarkovo. Only a small part of it remains on the surface in the lower course today. It originated not far from the current pools in Košutnjak and flowed alongside Miloš Crnjanski Elementary School, and then along Andy Warhol Street to Makiš Field, where it now merges into one of the drainage channels. It often happens that due to heavy rainfall, the stream resurfaces.

Neglecting Belgrade's rivers and streams has led to them becoming the biggest breeding grounds for contamination in the city today. There are ideas to revitalize those that are still visible on the surface and transform them into urban oases, spaces that Belgrade desperately needs.

Unfortunately, most of the mentioned watercourses remain only in the memories of the oldest Belgraders... It is up to us to get to know them and make an effort to turn at least those that are still visible on the surface into places we won't shy away from.