Waterfalls of Old Mountain (Stara Planina) | Natural Heritage of Serbia

Waterfalls are perhaps the most attractive natural landmarks. If they are easily accessible and rich in water, they leave a strong impression on travelers and passersby, which is why they are among the most visited natural tourist destinations in the world.

Some countries and cities can boast waterfalls that take your breath away - Niagara Falls, Plitvice Lakes, the waterfall in Jajce, Taor Springs... However, this is a story about those that are not reached by paved roads and where there are no restaurants and souvenir shops nearby. They are visited by those who love to commune with nature and are not afraid of long walks throughout the day.

Waterfalls in Serbia

Parts of the Balkan Peninsula are rich in waterfalls due to their geological structure and tectonic past. Unfortunately, in Serbia, they are not as common, and until recently, it was believed that there were almost no major waterfalls apart from a few smaller ones (Ripaljka in Sokobanja, Blederija in Miroč, Bukovac Do in Lisine, Jelovarnik in Kopaonik...).

It sounds unbelievable, but until about fifteen years ago, only the inhabitants of the Old Mountain, a few mountaineers, and enthusiasts who explored that area knew about the Toplodol waterfalls. They were not marked on maps, never written about, and were first introduced to the public by Vladimir Manic, a teacher from Nis who has been making documentary films about the Old Mountain since the 1990s. Today, Milan Simonovic and Milan Stojakovic, guides and environmental activists, promote the waterfalls and the Old Mountain in the most beautiful way, and they were even accompanied by the legendary Manu Chao on their journey through the Old Mountain.

The waterfalls on the Old Mountain represent its greatest natural treasure. They are distributed in two major river basins - Toplodol River and Dojkinac River. This text is dedicated to the Toplodol River and the waterfalls on its source branch called Javor River.

The Javor River basin starts from the village of Topli Do, located at an altitude of about 700 meters, and stretches all the way to Midžor (2169 meters), the highest peak of the Old Mountain and Central Serbia. Over an area of approximately 60 square kilometers, several dozen waterfalls, rapids, and cascades were formed during a long geological period.

How are waterfalls formed (in general)?

Tektonic movements and erosion are the most common causes of their formation. These processes can occur in an instant or last for millions of years. Waterfalls on the Old Mountain were formed as a result of tectonic movements in the past, which is why there are some with astonishing dimensions among them. The entire area is built of red sandstone, and this detail influenced the naming of the Toplodol River valley as the "Serbian Colorado".

Most of the Toplodol waterfalls are more difficult to access and require sufficient time and decent physical fitness to explore. However, it is relatively easy to reach the largest and most beautiful ones. Most of them are hidden in dense forests and cannot be seen until you approach them completely. To visit these waterfalls, you need a willingness, as well as other conditions such as a nice day, hiking boots, a good map, and basic knowledge of hiking rules. The best time to visit the waterfalls is during late spring when there is plenty of water in them.

In recent decades, an increasing number of mountaineers and tourists have been visiting the village of Topli Do and the Javor River in search of waterfalls, and there are now organized tours that are the best and safest way for curious individuals to explore them.

The visit to all the waterfalls starts from the village of Topli Do, the last village before entering one of the most beautiful parts of the mountain. Today, the village is almost uninhabited, and the few remaining residents offer a warm welcome to every traveler.

Pilj Waterfalls

The most accessible and frequently visited Lower Pilj waterfall is located about 6 km from the village, on the Lisev Dol River. Most of the way to it is a dirt road, but reaching the waterfall also requires a walk through the forest. With a height of 76 m, this waterfall is the highest in the basin and possibly the highest in Serbia. Impressive in size, with several smaller cascades, it is interesting to visit at any time of the year. On the same river, just a few kilometers upstream, is the Upper Pilj waterfall, 27 m high, which can be reached by off-road vehicle.

Kurtul Waterfalls

If the walk continues towards the source of the Javor River, you will reach the Kurtul Waterfalls on the tributaries of the same name. The Big Kurtul waterfall, approximately 30 m high, is interesting due to its unusual position - at the beginning of the canyon section of the river, and it is difficult to approach its base. Therefore, it is most often photographed from the opposite cliff, which offers an excellent view, especially during the vegetation-free period. The Small Kurtul waterfall (17 m) is located a few tens of meters downstream, at the exit of the canyon.

Krmol Waterfall

Continuing the walk, the next in line is the Krmol waterfall. It may not be among the highest, but it is certainly one of the most beautiful in the basin. It consists of two waterfalls, with an indentation between them, a so-called evorsion pothole that was carved out by the swirling water in the past. It is an ideal place for a break and dipping in the cold mountain river.

Čungul Waterfall

Probably one of the most famous waterfalls on the Old Mountain. It is one of the furthest from the village of Topli Do, and if all the previously mentioned waterfalls were visited, the Čungul waterfall would be the last one that can be seen in a single day. The Čungul waterfall is represented by a steep section approximately 33 m high, over which the water flows almost across its entire width during the rainy season. The thought of a rocky wall in the middle of the forest over which large amounts of water cascade down must admit sounds extremely exotic.

Koljćin Leap

In the Javor River basin, there are several smaller waterfalls. The Koljćin Leap, 17 m high, is located at the foot of Midžor. The waterfall is difficult to access from the direction of Topli Do because the trail passes through dense and difficult-to-pass forests. Fortunately, this waterfall is best seen when one distances oneself from it and is one of the few where you don't have to approach it to enjoy its beauty. For those who are eager to approach it, the easiest way is to descend to the ridge called Dugo Bilo after climbing Midžor.

Kaluđer Leap

One of the most beautiful but also difficult-to-access waterfalls is not located in the Javor River basin but is close to the village and is called the Kaluđer Leap. It consists of a series of cascades and rapids that overflow over the red sandstone for a length of about 200 m, leaving the impression of a murmuring "red" river.

This was an overview of the most famous waterfalls in the Javor River basin. The more difficult-to-access waterfalls also include those on the Vurnja River, which are not of impressive heights but are extremely beautiful at any time of the year. In addition to them, there are numerous rapids and waterfalls on the rivers, occasional and periodic waterfalls that occur only after snow melting and heavy rains. They come as a gift to those who dare to discover the secrets of the Old Mountain.

Unfortunately, in recent years, mountain rivers and waterfalls have been threatened by an ecological disaster in the form of mini hydroelectric power plants.