Sporades - Aegean Quartet of Pine Trees, Sea, and Fresh Fish

Archipelago of the Sporades is located right at the point that reveals the Aegean Sea, near the Greek port and hilly town of Volos, hinting at the island wealth of this country.

Geographically divided into several larger islands - Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos, and Skyros, their corresponding cliffs, uninhabited islets, underwater caves, and natural windmills, the Sporades are the first (and last) island region from which it is possible to see the Greek mainland and venture deeper into the embrace of the Aegean basin.

This group of islands defies the common belief that "the more you travel, the more places resemble each other," which is equally testified by the people on these islands - residents and visitors alike - as well as the unique natural treasures surrounded by the blue sea.

Being very close to the mainland but still oriented towards a coastal way of life, the Sporades combine landscapes characteristic of the Macedonia and Thessaly regions - dense pine forests, towering mountains, cliffs covered in evergreen vegetation cascading into the sea - and the Cyclades: distinctive craftsmanship, architecture, music, and gastronomy. Because of this unique combination, as well as easy access by car and plane, the Sporades make an excellent destination for a first encounter with the island charms of this country.

The most famous and tourism-developed island, Skiathos, carries the promise of a lasting topos, as indicated by its name itself, which means "shaded" (skia (σκιά)-shadow) in Greek. The legend about the origin of the name was recorded in verse by the 18th-century Greek poet and chronicler Konstantinos Dapontes, claiming that the shadow cast by the peak of Mount Athos over the Thermaic Gulf at sunrise ends up on the northern Sporades, precisely on this island. Today, Skiathos justifies its name with numerous natural shelters from the sun, as most of the island's periphery is covered in forests, and the local population will gladly guide you to one of the enticing beaches rather than discuss the name (although they will happily invite you to join them in the game if you ask them in the evening hours).

However, shadows are not the only thing this coastal diamond has to offer, as it is home to the most famous airplane spotting airport during landings and takeoffs. This particularly dangerous amusement is made possible by a runway located right next to the coast and a road alongside it, so the sight of jet engine thrust knocking down curious onlookers during takeoff is not a rare occurrence. All the attempts of the local authorities to thwart this kind of entertainment have been in vain.

Skiatos reveals its cosmopolitan past at every step, as its natural harbour has determined the fate of this trading hub of the aquatorium for centuries. From warehouses for fresh fish, warehouses for processed tobacco from Kavala, and fur ready for export from the northern parts of Epirus, as well as other dilapidated buildings, a city was born in the early 19th century, bearing the same name as the island, and it welcomes every guest with its narrow streets on the hills above the harbour. Right next to the ferry port is the Bourzi islet, now connected to the mainland, where the remains of a 13th-century Venetian fortress stand amidst lush vegetation. In the city itself, there is a local museum and the Aleksandros Papadiamantis House, the residence of the significant Greek writer and bohemian wanderer Alexandros Papadiamantis, who was much more interested in writing about the lives of the poor and singing in church than in high authorial fees (which he often voluntarily reduced). After his passing in 1911, he left behind significant works and a house that is now a museum. In addition to books and manuscripts, the stone-built well in the ground floor room of the house, which was once used for storing olive oil and wine, is particularly interesting.

The beaches of Skiatos are widely known, mostly sandy or with fine gravel, and beloved by Athenians, with Koukounaries and Kanapitsa taking the lead. Although it is easy to rent a motorbike or car on the island, due to favorable winds (the Sporades are located outside the zone of the strong meltemi wind characteristic of the Cyclades), sailing is extremely pleasant, and hiring boats is affordable. It is recommended to explore the area by sea rather than by land. This way, you can also reach Lalaria, one of the most interesting beaches in the Mediterranean, nestled next to a rocky arch and a castle ruin on a cliff.

Skopelos follows the line of islands that lead from the mainland to the heart of the Aegean, enticing curious visitors with eternal peace of pine trees and the inevitable ebb and flow. Until 2008, when the slopes, beaches, islets, and towns of Skopelos felt the power of international tourism sparked by movies, fans of the film Mamma Mia! have been determined to visit the locations where this Hollywood hit was created. Since then, the chapel of Agios Ioannis on the cliffs and Kastani Beach have become indispensable spots to visit on the island, anchoring the Aegean experience on Skopelos.

When you surrender to Skopelos, it shows you all the charms of island life, where the deputy mayor is a fisherman by profession, and the head chefs of local restaurants are gastronomic connoisseurs raised on an irreplaceable tradition passed down through generations (as the island is rich in spiny lobsters, astakomakaronades – pasta with fresh slipper lobsters in a butter and aromatic herb sauce – are particularly good). In such an atmosphere, a short summer stay becomes a window into the world of islanders , whose daily lives are marked by distance and resourcefulness, sometimes strange overlaps of roles in family, political, and local life, and above all, the sea – a powerful force that listens but does not like to be told what to do. That is why you will often hear how fishermen ritually prepare for their journey to the open sea, celebrate holidays related to the sea, catch, and protectors of navigation, and never give up their calling even in times of crisis or old age.

In Skopelos, in addition to fresh seafood, the local preparation of tiropita (cheese pies) and mpougatsa (vanilla cream pies) is highly appreciated. These special pies are made by rolling out thin dough, spreading it with butter, and filling it with savory or sweet stuffing. They are excellent in many places, but the advantages of a multi-generational family business can be felt in every bite at Mihalis Trandas' shop. They go best with strong Greek coffee or frappé.

Skopelos thrives beyond the tourist season and beyond the small circle of island families whose descendants have not left their homes. The largest producers of plums on the island (dried plums make a great souvenir) are Marakia and Tanasis, a Greek-Dutch couple, and the continuation of the tradition of art printing is Gill from Washington, the owner of an art studio who permanently settled on the island eight years ago. Nava from Norway owns a travel agency, and even a Serbian is present on the island, showing tourists astronomical wonders of the Greek sky, especially the August full moon, through a telescope available for rent on the promenade.

The most famous beaches of Skopelos are Agios Ioannis, Stafylos, and especially the cape of Amarandos, located at the southernmost point of the island, offering a view towards the interior of the Aegean.

The Sporades are best explored in company, visiting at least two islands during an extended stay. Compare where the freddo espresso is better made, where cooler watermelon is served as an essential part of the dessert in taverns, or where the variety of ice cream offerings is greater.

Do not compare the beaches, as there is no definitive answer as to which one is the best.

For cruise enthusiasts, an organized multi-day cruise around the Sporades will be a unique experience and an unforgettable memory etched in your mind.

Καλό ταξίδι! (Have a good trip!)

Recommended for watching: Mamma Mia! (2008)

Recommended for reading: Aleksandros Papadiamandis - Christmas Stories (2011), Easter Stories (2011), published by the Hilandar Monastery Foundation.

Recommended for listening: Prodromos - Skopelo mou

Author: Miloš Ničić