Skyros - Sporades in the Heart of the Aegean

In our previous travel expedition to the Sporades archipelago, we mentioned that their position between the mainland massif of Greece and the expanse of the sea is an ideal starting point for exploring these spheres of Greek life and nature.

While dense pine forests, towering mountains, and cliffs covered in evergreen vegetation characterize Skopelos, Alonnisos, and Skiathos, Skyros stands out with a completely different vibe – barren landscapes, whitewashed churches nestled on hilltops, narrow cobblestone streets in Chora, and other delights of the Cycladic ambiance. This geographical duality is strongly felt, with the north of the island covered in dense coniferous expanses, while the south is barren and rocky. Both landscapes are incredibly beautiful and picturesque, thanks to the relatively small number of tourists and a vibrant local community.

The location of Skyros guarantees that this island has been an important power hub in the past, both in mythical representations of power relations – it is believed that Theseus met his end on the cliffs of Skyros, and Achilles sailed to Troy after Odysseus exposed his hiding place at the court of Lycomedes – and in the history of the Hellenistic period, when it changed hands between Athens and Macedonian kings. Since 1830, when Skyros fell under the borders of the present-day Greek state, the island has been ruled by the Venetians and the Ottomans. Today, due to its strategic position in the heart of the Aegean Sea, the Greek Air Force base is located here. Its position and connection to Euboea allowed for easy communication with the mainland and provided an opportunity for further expansion into the wide Aegean island mosaic, which explains the continuous settlement from ancient times, as evidenced by the splendid archaeological site of Palamari with its remains from the Bronze Age, as well as the well-equipped archaeological museum, which offers free admission.

Skyros is not reached by the usual route, a ferry from Volos, but rather (preferably) by a direct flight from Athens to a wondrous airport with a runway that extends beyond the island's boundaries and stands on a causeway surrounded by the sea. The landing resembles a seaplane landing simulation and leaves a memorable impression. Another, even more memorable, way is by ferry. For over a decade, the café Cavos, perched on a cliff just above the port, announces the arrival of each ferry docking with Strauss's "Also sprach Zarathustra," to the delight and approving clicking of the tourists. The experience of arriving on the island at night, with the dark surface of the water reflecting the lights of the harbor and the powerful music of Strauss, is a unique experience!

.Skyros is a small island, outside the major currents of strong tourism, and it mostly lacks organized attractions and similar ready-made tourist options. For this reason, it is an excellent choice for a vacation where relaxation comes first, swimming in hidden coves, on beaches where you will likely be completely alone, and especially because of the high mountain in the south of the island where marked hiking trails are located, and where you can see Skyrian wild horses freely running on the same plains for thousands of years.

Horses that are in size between ponies and normal-sized horses are considered one of the rarest and oldest horse breeds on the planet, unchanged for thousands of years. They were the preferred riding choice of many ancient military commanders, but today the population does not exceed 200 horses, which are protected through various horse protection societies, as well as the care of the islanders and their use in island work. It is possible to ride these horses, and the best tours are those that include a visit to the mountain in the south, and then a descent to the beach for sunset. Being an island, the sun sets directly into the sea.

A leisurely stroll can take you almost to the Monastery of St. George, the patron saint of the island, which is located within the framework of the 13th-century Venetian castle built around the monastery, which has been there for three hundred years. Planted high on the rock and being a dependency of the Holy Monastery of Great Lavra on Mount Athos, from St. George, you can gaze down at Chora or the island's harbors.

After visiting the monastery, the Church of St. Nicholas on the northern part of the island, Pouriá, at the northern end of Molos beach, is also a must-visit. The peculiarity of this church lies in the fact that it is carved into the rock, and the rock itself resembles a large freestanding boulder, behind which stretches the blue of the Aegean. The square shape of the rock, the chalk-whitened "plinth" of the rock within which the church is located, and the combination of natural characteristics of the location make this place one of the most beautiful sites on Skyros.

The island is also known for its gastronomy and the local population, which is particularly sensitive to the quality of food, resulting in skilled chefs and fresh ingredients prevailing on the island. Skyros is known for preparing lobsters, which are found here in the archipelago, so lobster pasta dishes, known as "astakomakaronade," are common and abundant, more so than in some other places in Greece. The best lobster is traditionally eaten at the restaurant "Asimeno." Continuing culinary explorations should be continued (or started, and finished with lobster) at the taverns "Magireio tou Gianni" and "Tis maritsas." Homemade food, tin pots, and exceptional recipes guarantee that no one will leave the island hungry. Then, cool off with ice cream at "Falitiana" and have coffee on the cliff of Atitsatsa Bay, where you can enjoy the best view of the sunset directly over the Aegean.

The beaches on the island are among those Greek locations where the water appears bluer than the sky and clearer than the air on Mount Olympus. That's why swimming and sunbathing are among the main reasons for coming to this island, and the combination of green, evergreen beaches in the north and deserted beaches in the south guarantees that there will be something for everyone's taste. In other words, when the wind is not blowing, it's a shame to do anything else on the island except swim. Atsisa, Agios Fokas, Pefkos, and Teotokos are beaches that are in the top five in every guidebook about the island, and we invite you to judge for yourself.

Skyros is a true island for a tourism-free vacation, allowing you to get to know Greece as it was before the last wave of mass tourism. Get to know it!

Suggested viewing: BBC Francesco's Mediterranean Voyage

Suggested reading: The Island of Skyros – John Masefield

Suggested listening: Thomas Patmos – Ti thela kai s’agapousa