Kimolos - A Trace of Silver in the Aegean

In the very heart of the Aegean Sea, surrounded by larger and more visited islands such as Milos, Sifnos, and Sikinos, on a negligible surface area of 37 km2, lies the island of Kimolos, known for its mountainous terrain and numerous sea caves. With a population of no more than 650, mainly concentrated around the main town of Hora (Hora is the most common name for the main town of an island in the Cyclades) and the port of Psathi, which still predominantly engage in agriculture, fishing, and mining, Kimolos remains one of the untouched gems of Greek islands tourism. Its remoteness from the mainstream tourist routes, coupled with its unique natural and historical characteristics, make Kimolos an exceptionally interesting holiday destination for all those visitors for whom traveling to a destination is as much an exploratory venture as it is a sensory indulgence.

Kimolos was long known by its Venetian name Argentiera, primarily due to its perlite mines - amorphous volcanic glass of silver color, which had been extracted on the island for centuries and reached the construction sites of the entire southern Europe, primarily Italy, through an extensive road and sea network. In this context, one should understand the Greek name of the island, which derives from the word Kimolia, meaning chalk. Both names, besides referring to the materials mined on the island, also depict the colors of its landscape, particularly the numerous rocks on its periphery, forming a necklace of unusual beauty in shades of white and silver.

Upon arrival on the island, whether by ferry from Athens/Piraeus or by local kaiki boats from nearby Milos, where a small airport is located, one can immediately sense the typical Cycladic atmosphere on Kimolos. The traditional architecture of low white houses against the mostly barren island landscape, cobblestone streets with white joints, stone windmills, and numerous whitewashed churches confirm that the Cyclades archipelago shares common cultural and historical characteristics but is shaped by the natural peculiarities of each island and the historical fortunes/fates that befell them. During its glorious past, Kimolos was a trading and mining center, leading to the expansion of ports and the construction of a castle on the island, churches adorned with rich insignia, and the skill of local heroes celebrated for ensuring that church bells rang freely and without restrictions, forming the social heartbeat of the islanders. Therefore, it is not surprising that the oldest and truly beautiful church, Panagia Odigitria, dates back to 1592 and deserves its place on the list of the Ministry of Culture's protected sites, which holds special significance in a country teeming with historical landmarks.

On Kimolos, the combination of the atmosphere of better days from the past and the attempt to participate in the modern world through tourism can be felt in the leisurely rhythm of the locals, the traditional houses slowly adapting to tourists over several decades, even centuries, and new buildings being constructed to meet the needs of a new kind of visitor. Roads are expanding and being paved, especially towards the beaches and other places worth visiting. Therefore, both museums on the island are worth a visit – the archaeological museum (where a scene of an ancient funeral, discovered during excavations on the island, is brilliantly displayed under a transparent floor) and the ethnographic-folklore museum (interestingly named the People's and Maritime Museum), which houses the private collection of its founder, local physician Manolis Christoulakis, showcasing the material side of contemporary island history, with a focus on the mining and maritime activities of the local population.

All these visits to museums would not make much sense without aimless walks through narrow and winding streets within and outside the Venetian castle, built in the first half of the 15th century. It has been the center of island life since its inception, so significant that until the 19th century, all life was confined within its walls. Only about two hundred years ago did the construction of houses and other structures begin outside the castle boundaries. Hence, the architectural integration of defensive walls and residential buildings is particularly intriguing today. The outer wall of the houses was also part of the fortress walls, and the windows were actually gunports. Passing through one of the castle's four gates and observing the inner sides of the walls reveals the constant attempts of the population to balance the architectural legacy of late medieval Venetian presence with the need to organize living spaces according to subsequent needs. This endeavor has given rise to the present state of Hora, divided into Mesa Kastro (the town within the walls) and Ekso Kastro (the town outside the walls).

Known in ancient times for its excellent figs, the production of fragrant soaps, and the export of sea urchins, Kimolos does not shy away from its natural heritage even today. The ecosystem, blessed with a minimal number of pollutants and supported by the northern wind blowing from the Aegean, allows for the cultivation of excellent vines and the production of wine known throughout the archipelago. Ancient olive trees and fig trees still dot the island, so don't hesitate to pick some sweet fruit as you stroll along the narrow paths of rural Kimolos. Ideally, such refreshment will be needed during a longer hike to the site of "Skiadi", an unusual natural phenomenon in the shape of a giant mushroom rock, a natural monument perfectly placed in the middle of a barren plateau offering extraordinary views of the island and the neighboring Milos. Skiadi owes its appearance to the different composition of the rocks that make it up, with a softer base that erodes under the onslaught of the wind and a harder top that retains its shape.

In addition to the museums, the cultural scene on the island is refreshingly diverse, considering its size. It includes contemporary art workshops with a focus on the island's visual arts heritage, an open library maintained by a group of citizens called "Kimolistes," who often announce their artistic program by walking around the island with a megaphone, inviting people to current events. Notable among these events are the evening open-air film screenings at locations of extraordinary beauty.

The hospitality on Kimolos is remarkably warm, and the locals will make every effort (as they do throughout Greece) to ensure that you leave the island with fond memories. If that is not a problem for you (and it shouldn't be), indulge in the local delicacies that differ from typical Greek specialties, leaning more towards Balkan cuisine with Ottoman influences. Here, it is highly recommended to try the traditional pastry called Ladenia, something akin to Italian focaccia but, of course, more delicious. After breakfast and a few pieces of Ladenia collected from battered trays along the way, two coffees, and something sweet, head to one of the extraordinary beaches, including Goupa, Prasa, Dekas, and Kalamitsi, as well as the Pelekiti cave and the hot spring of Agioklima.

Kimolos is accompanied by the largest uninhabited island, Polyegos, whose name translates to "island with many goats". This is not surprising considering that grazing in the Aegean often involves transporting the flock across the sea to an uninhabited islet or a sizable rock with a water source and leaving them to roam freely. The coastline, due to its limestone composition, is carved into arches and caves emerging from the silvery blue of the Aegean. Besides the two people living on the island, it remains uninhabited, which is particularly appealing for yacht owners to anchor there and enjoy solitude far from tourists.

Choose Kimolos, sail to it and its uninhabited counterpart, enjoy the successful attempts of the island's population to cope with the challenges of global tourism, observe the marine spectacles of Mediterranean monk seals (Monachus monachus), for which Kimolos is one of the main Aegean gathering places, walk on the proud cliffs of the island overlooking the turbulent sea, get lost in the narrow streets of the Castle, and above all, relax on one of its beaches!

Recommendation for watching: Zorba the Greek

Recommendation for listening: Nikos Oikonomidis & Kyriaki Spanou: Kimolo, Paradeiso mou

Recommendation for reading: Kimolos in World War II

Author: Miloš Ničić