Ikaria - the Island of Good Life

Objectively speaking, based on well-known criteria for evaluating the quality of Greek islands, Ikaria would not rank particularly high. The island does not have a multitude of stunning beaches made of rock and sand that take your breath away; in fact, nature is wild and inhospitable in places, and the winds on the northern side can be so strong that they sometimes tear apart massive concrete port bridges, leaving behind all sorts of devastation. The island also lacks a dazzling gastronomic offer, iconic Cycladic architecture with white walls and blue roofs, a vibrant nightlife, and a refined range of cultural institutions that would attract visitors through contemporary or traditional museums, galleries, international film festivals, or art exhibitions and colonies.

Despite all that, Ikaria is a very well-known and deeply loved island, both in Greek and international contexts; its shores are densely populated with tourists during the summer, and the island's life is extremely active throughout the year.

What makes Ikaria so enchanting?

Ikaria's history is marked by turbulent episodes and the rumbling of conquerors, and it takes its name from the legendary mythical flyer Icarus, who, while soaring too high in the sky during flight, fell into a nearby corner of the Aegean Sea. The most probable reason for naming this island as a deadly place, at least for the legendary Icarus, is the extremely dangerous sea that surrounds it. That's why a temple to the goddess Artemis, among other things, protector of sailors, was built on its shores as early as the Classical period. Sailors would offer symbolic sacrifices, attempting to appease the sea and ensure safe navigation through this treacherous part of the waters. Christian knights held the island until the beginning of the 16th century, when it fell into Ottoman hands, and it showed its determined resistance – the first emin (tax collector) who set foot on the island was promptly hanged. Only through skillful negotiations did the locals avoid the tragedy of reprisal – no culprit was identified, and the administrative center of the new empire decided it was not profitable (or honorable) to punish the entire population. During the Greek War of Independence, the island separated from the Empire in 1827 but was not included in the newly established independent state and was forced to accept Ottoman occupation again until 1912.

During the turbulent Greek Civil War (1946-1949), a conflict that followed the just-ended and horribly exhausting World War II for the Greeks, Ikaria became an exile home for over ten thousand communist fugitives from the regime, including many poets, writers, translators, composers, and scientists who spent several years on the island, leaving behind a cosmopolitan trace and the nickname "red rock." The legacy of centuries-long resistance, as well as this short but eventful combination of a rural environment, harsh nature, and numerous political refugees, creates a special atmosphere of individuality, thoughtfulness, and modesty on the island. First and foremost, the inhabitants of Ikaria are quite self-reliant; most of them engage in goat farming as their main occupation, supported by European Union subsidies. Many cultivate their land, maintain gardens with organic vegetables, fruits, and medicinal herbs, produce their wine, brandy, olive oil and the widely known honey and honey brandy, which they claim is the foundation of their legendary longevity.

Today Ikaria is one of the five world "Blue Zones" - enclaves of longevity where the population regularly exceeds the age of 90 in health and work. This is a particularly enticing fact in a time when the health imperative includes daily visits to the gym, special dietary regimes, abstentions, and other forms of "punishment" of one's own body in the name of future health and long life. Ikariots completely defy these dictates of modern West with their own pace towards centenarian longevity, rejecting instant recipes for health. Many scientists who have celebrated Ikaria attribute this fountain of youth not only to nutritional factors and physically active life but above all to social connections, belonging to the community, and a sense of connectedness with other islanders, which leads to a sense of purpose in life and the joy it brings, despite material difficulties, harsh winters, and crowded tourist seasons. The rhythm on the island is Mediterranean - work in the morning, then lunch and rest, with occasional tasks remaining for the afternoon; evenings are for socializing and play. Faith in God, indulgence in the taste and experience of life (primarily alcoholic beverages and cigarettes), respect for the elderly and their inclusion in society are credited for the happy, satisfied, and fulfilled life of numerous Ikariots who, like Konstantinos, still produce wine at the age of 100 and simply "refuse" to die.

There is no stress on the island - very often the shop owners will open and close their shops when it suits them, adjusting their working hours to other obligations they have that day. Such nonchalance may sometimes be unusual for tourists, but they quickly adapt to it with pleasure because evenings, especially in summer, are traditionally spent in squares, where taverns (even by Greek standards) are packed, and often stay open past midnight. With this way of life, respect for family, friends, and visitors, Ikaria and its inhabitants seem to defy the modern Western way of life with its instrumental materialism and fragmentation, rushing through time, technological dependence; through losses and identity constructions, spiritual quests, and opposition to consumerist lifestyles, it offers exactly the opposite - a life of stresslessness and a sense of belonging and grounding.

In this spirit, it is no wonder that this island is world-famous for its fairs, panagyri (religious festivals), and outdoor celebrations. From May to October, several such festivities unite the island community each week, and marking the patron saints is of great importance to them. In addition to the opportunity to gather together, enjoy food and drink, panagyri also provide a chance to raise funds for infrastructure work on churches, schools, and roads. One of the most striking fairs is dedicated to Saint John, in the village of Hristos Raheon, every June 24, during which Christian traditions merge with archaic rituals of fire jumping and burning of the May wreath as a symbolic act of purifying the body and soul.

The possibilities for visiting this unique island are numerous and worth considering, as on Ikaria, besides swimming and sunbathing on the beaches (the most beautiful of which are Nas and Sejšeli), many other activities can be done - hiking or descending into caves, kayaking just above the dam or climbing waterfalls. Hotels and guesthouses offer accommodation for every budget, and due to the "anarchistic" spirit of the island, it is often possible to enjoy wild camping without consequences if you strictly adhere to safety rules in nature. In the village of Akamatri, it is worth visiting a five-hundred-year-old oak tree, which has been a gathering place for centuries, but also a place of gallows in times of crisis, and in the village of Arethousa, there is a chapel of Teokepasti carved into the rock. The sunset is spectacular in the fishing village of Avlaki, where you can extend it by having fresh fish for dinner. Be sure to try the famous Ikarian honey and the local Kathoura cheese. For longer visits, it is recommended to take a trip to one of the nearby islands - Mykonos, Syros, or Samos.

Suggested watching: Ikaria - The Island Where People Live Forever

Suggested reading: Diane Kochilas - Ikaria: Lessons on Food, Life, and Longevity from the Greek Island Where People Forget to Die

Suggested listening: Giannis Parios – Ikariotiko

Author: Miloš Ničić