Belgrade Islands: 12 Green Oases on Water (Part 1) | Natural Heritage of Serbia

That the geographical position of Belgrade is unique in Europe - we have read and heard about it forever. On the banks of two great rivers, at the intersection of three European corridors, at the gateway to central Europe...

The consequence of such an attractive and strategically significant position is an endless array of conquerors who have visited it, from the time when our capital was called Singidunum, to just 75 years ago when it almost became Prince Eugenstadt.

Growing constantly in all directions, Belgrade has gradually moved away from the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, expanded along their banks, "skipped" streams and small rivers, and "conquered" numerous hills and slopes to find itself within today's borders.

Many will be surprised to learn that within those borders (or right next to them) there are currently 12 river islands - "adas", unique green oases that most Belgraders have never set foot on.

Ada Ciganlija

There's no need to talk specifically about Ada Ciganlija - unlike the others, this is probably the only "ada" where the aforementioned statement doesn't apply. Easily accessible from all directions, one of the most visited destinations in Belgrade also represents the most beautifully landscaped park-forest in the city, a popular bathing spot (known as the "Belgrade Sea"), a place for walking, recreation, all-day entertainment, and evening outings. And all of this just a few kilometers from the city center. Although it is technically a peninsula, until 1957, Ada Ciganlija was a typical river island, which was then connected to the mainland by embankments in order to create the excursion site we know today. It is less known that from 1920 until the end of World War II, a prison for enemies of the state was located on Ada Ciganlija. Before the war, it mostly housed communist activists, and after the war, the prison was reserved for so-called enemies of the people. It is believed that in 1946, the commander of the Yugoslav Army in the Fatherland, Dragoljub Draža Mihailović, was executed on Ada Ciganlija.

Great War Island

Although well known to everyone, there aren't too many who have walked the Great War Island, or at least not the majority, the "wild" part. Situated at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, from which it was formed, this typical island, whose development is extremely interesting, represents an extraordinary oasis of flora and fauna just a few kilometers away from the urban jungle of Belgrade that surrounds it on three sides. Being a historically important strategic point in attacks and defense of the city, due to the capriciousness of the two large rivers, Great War Island was never inhabited. Over time, this peaceful island, rich in water and greenery, has become one of the most important ornithological stations in Europe, housing more than 160 different bird species and rightfully carrying the status of a protected area of exceptional characteristics by law. One of the iconic features of Great War Island is certainly the Lido beach, a traditional bathing spot for the people of Zemun, which can be reached during the summer season via a temporary pontoon bridge starting from Zemun's Liberation Quay. Outside the bathing season, the island is accessible to nature lovers and adventurers only by boat.

Small War Island

Although of equal age, Small War Island, being much smaller in size, is located right next to its Great namesake, in the "arm" of the Danube that surrounds Great War Island from the south, just a hundred meters away from the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Although always significantly smaller than the Great one, Small War Island didn't always look like it does today. It used to be much more spacious, and in the past, it was also known as Horse Island - named after the trade horses that peacefully grazed here while their owners finished their business in Belgrade or Zemun. With the start of the construction of New Belgrade in 1947, the land and sand from Small War Island were used to fill the swamp and drain the land for the future settlement, resulting in a significant reduction in the island's surface area. In the following decades, the river currents shaped the island, and it now looks like a smaller elongated spit, completely covered in vegetation and hardly accessible to humans. The dense vegetation is a paradise for birds, while onlookers can only gaze longingly at this small piece of wilderness on the outskirts of Belgrade from nearby rafts and waterfront restaurants.

Ada Međica

Situated between Sava Quay and Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica represents an almost perfect example of organized wilderness. Easily accessible by boat from both sides, it is far enough from the city noise and asphalt to deserve the epithet of a green oasis of peace, yet it is also accessible and urban enough to consistently attract people from both banks of the Sava River. Unlike most Belgrade islands, Međica is seasonally inhabited - on its banks and sporadically in the interior of the island, numerous rafts and cottages have emerged in recent decades, offering a perfect retreat in nature amidst a big city. The size of these structures is regulated by law (up to 25 square meters), so the entire environment exudes a special harmony, where nature still takes the lead. The majority of the island's interior is covered with forests, while a smaller part consists of meadows and flowers, so apart from occasional puddles filled with fresh water, there is nothing else to indicate that you are on an island, surrounded by the Sava River. The owners of the cottages and the Association of Save and Danube Lovers, which manages the island, insist on the cleanliness of this oasis, which can be understood as soon as you step off the boat. Therefore, an unwritten rule for all visitors is - take your trash with you when you leave.

Ada Huja

Unfortunately, it cannot be said that Ada Huja represents an urban oasis today. Although it used to be, and although it has the potential to be again, Ada Huja today is mostly an eyesore rather than a place that Belgrade should be proud of. Namely, in the 1960s, with the intense expansion of the city, the green oasis beneath the newly built Karaburma neighborhood was transformed into an official city landfill. The place where numerous generations of Belgraders grew up, played "Robinson," swam in the so-called "Dunavac," and ice skated on the frozen channel - was turned into the main city dump. This was preceded by the embankment and filling of a part of the channel, turning Ada Huja into a peninsula, and the Dunavac into an almost stagnant water surface where the sewage from the entire Palilula ended up, spreading an unbearable stench towards the surrounding neighborhoods. At the end of the 1970s, the landfill was finally relocated to Vinča, but the dump on Ada Huja has still not been completely removed, nor has the (pen)island been restored. In recent years, there has been increased activism towards the improvement of this (former) island. Although it now partly represents a relatively tame landscape and a park with an increasing number of tourist attractions, it will take many more years for Ada Huja to regain its former green splendor, its natural and ecological significance for Belgrade.

Višnjica Ada ("Paradajz" Island)

However, not everything is bleak when it comes to river islands in this part of the city. "Paradajz" Island, or Višnjica Ada, formed in the mid-1980s, represents a relatively new addition to the landscape of Belgrade. It is located across from the Višnjica neighborhood, an extension of Ada Huja, separated by a short arm of the Danube River. Being in the immediate vicinity of the former landfill, in an area that has been an industrial zone for half a century, this island cannot boast a high level of cleanliness and environmental preservation, but it certainly has the potential to become an ecological base for this part of Belgrade in the future, with proper planning. The island itself is overgrown with dense forests and represents an authentic piece of wilderness, without any urban traces (except for the waste carried by the river), just 8 kilometers from the city center. The name "Paradajz" Island is symbolic and comes from the wild tomatoes found in several different locations on the island.

In the second part, we will explore the remaining six almost completely wild Belgrade islands...